sounds fine to me as long as it bolts onto some surrounding MDF.

Heres my proposal for your approval.

I call it the "Spruce Moose", and it will carry two hundred passengers from New York's Idyllwild Airport to the Belgian Congo in seventeen minutes!!





specs:

Drive -
- 300w scooter motors driving 4 wheels via a serpentine chain system.
- 150mm metal trolley wheels.
- top speed ~ 25mph (double cobras speed)
- the wheels bolt to the side of of the robot on special steel carriers that bolt to the sides.



Armour / Frame -
- 12mm MDF and 3mm on the top and bottom.
- 10mm x 10mm square aluminium strips with drilled and tapped holes hold most of the internal panels together while the front weapon is held on with 3mm aluminium L bracket.

Electronics -
- A123 6 cell for the drive and an 11.1v Lipoly for the weapon
- Sidewinder esc on the drive
- plush 30A controller for the weapon

Weapon -
- 500mm saw blade weighing 500 grams.
- powered by a teensy C3530 brushless motor.
- gear reduction is approximately 4:1 so speed is about 4000rpm
- o ring transmission

i think that about covers it!

questions/suggestions/points of order whatever needs to be said.

probably about the speed of the weapon i guess is the only part in question. considering the motor size (800 watts) i dont think itll be none too powerful.

and also the wheel attachments. they only bolt to the wood even though its two pieces welded together so i think those will be okay too.

P.S rhino isnt liking rendering the 50 + bolts
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Looks like the stuff.
You might want to use some of the steel weight allowance (for electronics) to box up the batteries in something solidish (and perhaps put the female connectors on the battery leads), I'm imagining in this class batteries exiting the bot could be somewhat common.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

very nice!

good use of Mr Burns quote

That's a very nice model...
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It seemed like a good idea on paper...

hows everyone else looking or am i the only one again

question - how does MDF go with countersunk bolts. theres only 8 holes in the base to hold the motors on and id like the ground clearance to be over 4mm. so was hoping to countersink the motor mount bolts. there M6.

there in the middle of the base plate basically so not too near any edges.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Countersunk screws can pull thru MDF. For M6 screws holding motors, you should be fine though.

I have been collecting parts and making a few bits, but its not nearly done yet

cool stuff.

another question (this wood stuff is new to me )

can you form or bend MDF about 6mm thick? i want to make a shape thats like this \_____/ but the angles will be nowhere near that much. maybe 30 degrees from the horizontal line or so.

i swear ive seen it done with water or something like that but cant find anything on it now :/

if i can do that itll save me tons of work on mounting the back end.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Not as far as i'm aware.
You can bend normal timber with steam and such like but MDF would just swell up and break the glue joints i'd assume.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

All I can think of is to cut the pieces around the diagonal MDF so that it fits in like a puzzle piece.
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

Short answer is no You can bend 3mm MDF thru a shallow curve & then glue-up several layers, or you can "slice & dice" a thicker part to make it bend, but strength is always lost.

I would try & stick with straight panels joined with brackets & bolts - its the best option allowed in the rules. Your bot is probably illegal anyway, it has 100% steel and rubber armour down the sides, very clever!