That sounds ideal Jake. Im sticking with switches as they worked well at event and i could controll scrap well. Will try drill speedo's in the next robot me thinks for something different.

If u can make up a little kit taht can failsafe a good number of channels like 3 or 4 that would be great.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

ive used servo switching in SORRY from the beginnig with great success..i have light up switches that indicate any problem with servos before the power to the drives or weapon is activated ......so in basic terms as soon as i activate the radio and turn on the reciever ,if a servo reacts and swings to hit a microswitch a light is activated indicating witch servo is the problem ........100% idiot proof i reckon ,so if the lights on i turn it off the radio and reciever and fix the problems before any power is turned on
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Photos - http://community.webshots.com/album/154092733uokpXC
Photos- http://community.webshots.com/album/166819552PDWWqP

I do almost that. Since I have multiple switches on each servo I can power up the radio, and listen to each one doing a full swing, and hear the switch clicks. It's easy to tell when they're all in the right place - and then I turn on the main switch.

None of that's very relevant now though, since that bot was a quick chuck together job, and the next one will be much more advanced
The old servo switch board might have to go into my r/c boat to test out a new motor (Jaycar 20krpm 6 volt running at 12)
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The Engine Whisperer - fixer of things

sounds good ..looking forward to the next round already
today i soughted out the new improved SORRY .....a lot 'leaner but just as meaner,' and a lot of anti spinner armour .........and of coarse i will remember this time to put on the anti flipper devices
2 ROUNDS TO GO and i plan on being number 1
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Photos - http://community.webshots.com/album/154092733uokpXC
Photos- http://community.webshots.com/album/166819552PDWWqP

i like your idea there nick with spinners fired off with servos requiring failsafes. very good idea.

as for the failsafe i believe the FS-1 failsafe has enough power in it to bring the servos back to center if the power is cut.

theres a post on one of the american forums from a the builder of a robot called BOB. he built the radio and speed controller as one thing. it uses 4 switches and a basic stamp as the radio system. ingenious.

if you could send me a copy of that diagram too jake that would be great, im not going to take the chance of having a relay weld together. all solid state for me. im looking at using the servo guts to fire a fet.

I just want to test it in the all new "actually fails safe" mode rather than its current "fails in a way that poses a serious risk to your ankles" mode before I lol "publish" it, but it is designed for the IBC's. Just connects direct to the plug.

cobra report -

got the weapon motor and its a beast. its without doubt the biggest fan motor at pick and payless. out of a volvo and made by bosch.

the weapon motor is a little to big to go in the body so its going to sit under the disc on the A frame meaning i can go back to my 2.3ah SLAs in parrallel.

motors are going to 9.6v at 12 so i can have the same drive power.

weapon might have to be a lawnmower blade for times sake but the disc will eventuate.

still evaluating whether to use circlips or shaft collars to hold the weapon assembly onto the A frame...

so hows everyone else going?
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

ok i spose havent had time to get out to pick and payless will do next week and mark rang me and said that he had just checked his wheels on his bot and they were so hacked up by IG that they are un-useable he grabed one of the wheels and a masive section came off in his hands so yeah just an update dont know about my ibc yet. i will ask brett next time i see him online
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as a shadow is seen and not heard i am here
-Waddy the phoenix

I hope to get the IBC in Basilisk Lite working over the weekend (assuming Brett's diagnosis was right) and get the chassis cleaned up.

I will also get some tools from Hare & Forbes (is lathe fondling still illegal?) that will make building the next bots WAY quicker.

Next week the Basilisk Ti version with the Mag motor gets under way. I am out of drill motor mounts and a new batch will take all next weekend.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

whats basilisk lite??

Basilisk Ti with mag motor. CRAP!!!!.

I am seriously wetting myself now.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

so what robots are coming to m7?

cobra? scrap? el bravo? sorry? roflchopter? plan b? singularity? TSE? cerberus? basilisk?
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

aagrh. half of them r spinners .

I also plan on a second robot with a lifting jaw type thing. DOnt count on it though but ill try and get it done.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

quote:

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whats basilisk lite??

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lol. lots of new machines coming out of the woodwork. I'll just let you all sit and hang for my next machine....
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

ok so i got off my ass and fired up eagle for a bit


ok for some splainin
area 1 is a bit of a heatsink, it can also be used as power for the motor.
(IE that bit is *live* so if you are bolting to something metal then insulate your bolts/cut the pcb around the trace etc etc. you can also get insulator pads that will sit under the fet itself but still transmit heat.)
you can add a real heatsink under the fet itself if your going to be pulling lots of current.

Area 2 is connected to the IBC controll output.

Area 3 is left alone and connects to the left leg of the fet

Area 4 is electrically connected through the FET to the metal bit on the back, this is the OUTPUT of the circuit. connect this to the positive terminal of the MOTOR.

Area 5 is the power INPUT, connect this to your POSITIVE battery terminal.

the diode between area 5 and 3 (the thing with the little arrow) is a 12 volt Zener Diode.
the resistor under that has a value of 10 kilo ohms (10k)
the resistor from area 3 to area 2 has a value of 1 kilo ohm.

this circuit is rated to 19A continious with propper heatsinking and airflow and 78 amps pulsed.

Parts List
STOCK-CODE: ZT2467 RRP: $4.95 Mosfet P-Channel part IRF954ON

STOCK-CODE: RR0572 RRP: $0.38 1K0ohm 1/2 Watt 1% Metal Film Resistors - Pk.8

STOCK-CODE: RR0596 RRP: $0.38 10Kohm 1/2 Watt 1% Metal Film Resistors - Pk.8

STOCK-CODE: ZR1412 RRP: $0.40 12V 1N4742 1 Watt Zener Diode

Data Sheet for mosfet
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/ZT2467.pdf

I havent built this one yet but it should work.
the last one i made with just a hand grinder and the drill press.

heres a piccie of the last one. the new one isnt that different.
note the resistors and diode go on the back
note also that the center leg is extended in this one, it makes cutting the tracks behind easier and also helps hold the fet down and stop it rattling around.