I know quite a few of us here have UPs or UP minis. So I thought I would start a list of what suppliers and types of plastics actually work reasonably well on the printer.
I will try to keep this list on the front page updated as best I can. These are tests which summarise the supplier, plastic, whether or not I am using the 12Ohm switch mod, how easily the raft pulls off and if it smooths.
For raft removal
Normal = same as legit white.
Easy = easier than white
Hard = sticks but can be removed
Impossible = sticks can't be removed.
Bilby CNC - White ABS - Switch ON - Raft Removal Normal - Smooths OK
Bilby CNC - Fluro Yellow - Switch ON - Raft Removal Easy
Bilby CNC - Fluro Yellow - Switch OFF - Raft Removal Hard
I have a draw full of plastic to test, so I wlll add to this. If anyone else has experiences with their up minis feel free to share.
Bilby CNC - Clear Nylon - No Temp Mod - Doesn't print, just gasses and ozes a bit. Only time it works correctly is during continuous high feed extrusion. Needs the Temp Mod to print as the extruder is way too hot.
Bilby CNC - White ABS - No Temp Mod - Prints fine, relatively smooth (not as nice as the UP filament), Rafting is Very Hard to remove, generally results in breaking something on the print out. Not sure if Temp Mod will fix the raft issues. _________________ https://www.halfdonethings.com/
Bilby CNC - Black - Switch ON - Raft Removal Easy
Bilby CNC - Black - Switch OFF - Hard
Bilbly CNC - Green - Switch ON - Raft Removal Easy _________________ Steven Martin
Twisted Constructions
http://www.botbitz.com
Wed Oct 16, 2013 3:23 pm
miles&Jules Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3973
Location: ipswich QLD
One good thing about the Bilby black (without the temp mod) is that it seems to really make a tough mix(cause its hotter i guess) even with the chunkiest honeycomb inner setting....so that is one bonus...also i think the temperature of the bed also makes removal of the base harder...so i have been printing a 4mm tall cylinder poking out the bottom of my drawings so the raft is higher off the bed...seems to work well even though the base will look pretty crappy....but who cares if its the bottom of an ant. _________________ Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au www.wombokforest.com.au
-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015
Mon Oct 21, 2013 11:23 pm
Jaemus Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 01 Apr 2009
Posts: 2674
Location: NSW
Can someone elaborate on the 12 ohm switch mod? _________________ <Patrician|Away> what does your robot do, sam
<bovril> it collects data about the surrounding environment, then discards it and drives into walls
Sat Dec 07, 2013 2:23 pm
miles&Jules Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3973
Location: ipswich QLD
it makes the nozzel think its hotter than it actually is…so you can use the cheaper filament that has a lower melting temp…..but i was getting error messages of "nozzle to hot or nozzle to cold"….. so i ditched it and just use the cheaper stuff without the hack…..it just makes the raft difficult/ impossible to remove …thats where the belt sander coming in handy _________________ Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au www.wombokforest.com.au
-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015
Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:07 pm
Jaemus Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 01 Apr 2009
Posts: 2674
Location: NSW
aha thanks dude _________________ <Patrician|Away> what does your robot do, sam
<bovril> it collects data about the surrounding environment, then discards it and drives into walls
Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:51 pm
dyrodium Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 6476
Location: Sydney
Starting to do up a few videos on various 3D printing and maker topics, thought I'd post the first one in here as a lot of you guys now have the UP mini's and these are tricks I specifically came up with for making the mini's print better.
Please excuse the terrible editing and filming still learning how to use a dslr for filming + how to edit / talk to the camera.
Joined: 29 May 2012
Posts: 454
Location: Rockhampton/qld
Looking good mate! I never thought of using seal picks, will be trying that one out this week, are you going to do a session on acetone vapour baths later?
Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:45 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Excellent vid, especially for a first go. Are you going to start a site or a Youtube channel with the videos?
Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:23 pm
dyrodium Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 6476
Location: Sydney
Cheers yeah dude the picks are so handy. I'll probably be doing an acetone smoothing vid but damn if I'm being held responsible for some idiot going to hospital... going to need to draft a proper disclaimer for that one.
@ Nick yep i'll be doing lots all on the general theme of 3d printing / making things under the channel 'maker's muse'. I have makersmuse.com so that's a good start, some other idiot on youtube had youtube/makersmuse though... _________________ ( •_•)
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Shame about the Youtube name, how about Instructables? its a better class of viewers there anyway .
Let me know if you want some simple tricks to make filming easier / better - I learned some useful stuff at tech and years at channel 9.
Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:19 pm
dyrodium Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 6476
Location: Sydney
Thanks for the offer Nick! I'd very much appreciate it. I'll be going back to work in the rocks some time this week, so will be able to get the beater back to you and have a little chat if you have time. Will let you know when work finally confirms work days >_>
Joined: 21 Feb 2010
Posts: 355
Location: Gladstone, Queesland
nice video
Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:54 pm
miles&Jules Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3973
Location: ipswich QLD
Nice vid Angus….love the ABS goo stuff…..do you only use that on a sealed surface(like the glass you had in the vid) or do you use it on the up base sheet ( thing full of holes)?
We never seem to have problems with it to sticking to the base plate…but i like how you put the clip on the back as well to help stop warping.
You could try throwing in some groovy transitions on your edits. it's usually the rule if you can't do an angle change, or cut away then go the transition.
I just appreciate the fact that you have it on a tripod…better than most youtube vids he he
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