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RC cars, planes, boats, heli's etc talk
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Knightrous
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How about you stop tuning it on the concrete Laughing
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Post Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:34 am 
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timmeh
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Get some cheap warehouse\crazy clints degreser the shiz that comes out in a nice 1 metre stream and is fun to light on fire Twisted Evil
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Post Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:17 pm 
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Glen
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got a cool big ass battery powered glow plug starter and bought one of those GV electric starters for it. had enough of ripping the fuel line off everytime i start the engine xD

need to get the faceplate for the OS motor as they supplied some gay Force version Evil or Very Mad but i might need to do something with the exhaust as it looks like itll get straight in the way Confused

still need the tune out the top end but its working good. real good. might bring it to the event and gun it up talagandra Razz
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Post Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:04 pm 
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Glen
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any one have any little tips for knowing when theres fuel in the carb for these engines. im so sick of trying to start it for like 5 minutes and realising the fuel tube just takes on the colour of the fuel Evil or Very Mad

but its working now, all good Razz
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Post Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:27 pm 
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original_carnage
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quote:

any one have any little tips for knowing when theres fuel in the carb for these engines



Well..... if you block the exhaust with your finger and pull the pull start (or hit it with an electric starter) you should see the fuel go shooting along the fuel line really quick.
If you put your ear close to the carby after getting fuel up to the carby, you will be able to hear the fuel squirt through the "jet" and into the crank case.

....make sure the glow plug is "finger tight" so that the engine has compression to suck the fuel of course...

I know it's a bit late for you Glen - but I recommend a "bump starter" box instead of the electric roto-starters. Reason - rotos often destroy their own gearboxes, can be tempremental to use and don't have great cranking power. The bump starter boxes are easy to use and crank all kinds of engines easily.... they are $100+ though...

hope it is some help.
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Post Fri Aug 25, 2006 3:09 pm 
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Glen
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i was going to get a starter box but when i go to the track i just borrow the cousins. a bit big to have around here considering the amount of crap that i have now lol.

finally got it tuned on the big road near the dumpsters. goes kinda alright. needs a .18 motor and 2 speed gearbox XD more powah.

it stopped doing it after i tuned it but what does it mean when it runs fine but when you go from full power to full brakes the engine cuts out?
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Post Sat Aug 26, 2006 6:34 pm 
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original_carnage
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quote:

what does it mean when it runs fine but when you go from full power to full brakes the engine cuts out?



....usually a clutch problem..... sometimes an idle issue.

1st check the idle issue. Take off the air filter and turn on your radio gear. Put Tx in full "brake" position. Look down the carby throat. Make sure there is still a 0.5mm to 2mm opening in the carby. If no opening - turn the little black screw (may have a tiny black spring on it) called an "idle stop" screw... to open up the carby a little. Let the servo go back to rest position, adjust the carby, then go back to full brakes to check the adjustment. Repeat until the correct space is returned to the carby throat.

If the carby throat has enough of an opening under full brakes - my guess is that it will be the clutch.
To remove the engine without mucking with the gear mesh - remove the 4 philips-head screws (not the allen-key head screws). The fuel line and carby linkage can then be easily slipped off.
Now you should have your engine free from the car. The engine will still be firmly bolted to its engine mount, and the mount will still be firmly bolted to a face-plate/spacer.
Take off the clutch bell (one screw or "E" clip) - clutch bell is the pinion gear/clutch housing under the carby. Slip off the clutch bell and inspect the clutch.
I'm guessing the clutch spring is worn or destroyed OR one (or more) clutch shoes is worn/cracked OR there is an obstruction inside the clutch bell such as a small stone.

Clutch shoes and clutch springs are a consumable part in nitro (and unleaded) powered RC cars. You should be able to get a packet of genuine parts to fix an entire clutch (shoes and spring) for less than $18.

....until you put in a race clutch (closer to $140) Confused

hope that's some help...
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Post Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:07 am 
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Glen
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ahh good stuff, turns out i had the low end wound out so much it was closing the carb totally Confused all fixed. ripped out the engine to put the new starter plate on. gawd dammit its the wrong one again Mad

but i did clean the thing up as there was this black powdery crap all through everything and after seeing a new model at the store realised how savagely bent my baseplate is Shocked ... time for a new one Shocked

do they make CF ones for the bv-1 nick Laughing

will take the entire engine down tommorow and see what they can do for me. failing that ill just stick it back in and race jeffs to be traxxas revo Razz for the record that thing is a monster.
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Post Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:39 pm 
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ffej
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quote:
Originally posted by Glen:
failing that ill just stick it back in and race jeffs to be traxxas revo Razz for the record that thing is a monster.


I got the money out tonight to get past the $800 card limit . . . so now I just have to get it lol
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Post Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:54 pm 
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Glen
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lol should i bring mine, our carpark looks like some prime racing area heh
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Post Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:55 pm 
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original_carnage
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CF = carbon fiber ????

....I don't think they ever made a carbon fiber main chassis for the BV series of cars.

..there was (about 18 months ago) a limited edition BV race edition. Honestly not sure if it is still available. The car came less radio gear and without bodyshell as well.
Retailed for approx. $850 (back when the normal BV was $600+ ready to run). Didn't sell well so we didn't bother ordering many.
Thing is though - the radio tray was carbon fiber, the rest of the car was CNC machined alloy (with a nice gold finish), came fully kitted with 2 speed tranny, sway bars (with a selection of sway bars) and a O.S. CVR race engine. VERY light car with a race donk Smile not bad..... not sure how quick one of them went - never got to see one running after being run-in.

...for the $$'s they weren't bad.

....as a comparison - my last on-road race car (touring - not drag racing) was a Mugen Seiki MTX2 - pro spec. The car came as a kit (chassis and drive train in millions of parts in a box) for approx. $850, still required radio gear, wheels & tyres, bodyshell, clutch, exhaust and engine.
...I think it ended up comming to approx. $1250 to start tuning to race.

RC cars have never been as cheap as they are now. Smile
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Post Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:30 am 
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Glen
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hmm just having a look on the model engines site, you can get the pro chassis which is 7075 instead of 6061, and the carbon fibre rear plate and electronic plate. hmmm i think i will be requiring those Laughing (i may be stupid buti cant see any place to actually buy those parts? there just listed on the site... i guess they dont do retail Crying or Very sad ) any chance of you guys getting those in Razz

if one was to ponder the use of a more "ample" engine what would be the biggest and baddest you could possibly fit into this thing?
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Post Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:35 pm 
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ffej
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OT, but make sure you bring your car tomorrow Glen, Mr Revo wants to try its hand onroad lol (im still wondering if I should have even gotten it, but meh, money is there to spend, not to sit there and look pretty)
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Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:04 am 
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Knightrous
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Worst case Jeff, you sell it on Ebay and use the return cash to build a bot Cool
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Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:50 am 
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original_carnage
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Sad No Model Engines doesn't retail at all.

Will check on those parts for you though.....
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Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 3:10 pm 
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