Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 3110
Location: Castle Hill, Sydney. N.S.W
Plus if the wheels get shredded or damagaed its not the wheels fault they are damaged.
Its like blue max versus tombstone, nearly all 4 wheels were mangled and/or torn off but thats because there mounted to the outside of the robot.
AFter the match they walk up going stupid wheels, they are far too weak.
It is the builders job to either have them mounted inside the robot or to have protection for them.
The only robot i have seen with strong wheels to stand up to spinners is richochet (12 pounder titanium robot. Dandelion tried many tmes to knock wheels off and landed fair few direct hits yet no significant damage and they stayed on. _________________ Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics
Mon Oct 11, 2004 8:54 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Nice work Jake, that's very professional looking! One thing I noticed with moulded tyres like Colsons is that even when they get cut quite badly, they tend to hold together well. If you are adding kevlar out the the edge of the wheel, then its likely to do even better than Colsons and way, way better than red wheels. 10/10 _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Mon Oct 11, 2004 10:56 pm
Valen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney
you dont want any fiber near the thread, if you wear through to it you will wind up just running on the (slippery) fibers.
I think people are going to wind up breaking something else before they break the wheels.
if you have a propegating split you will want to replace them anyway but i think you could cut pretty much through the tyre (diamiter wise) and you would still last a round.
we are also looking at "compound" tyres, a stiffer center and a *really* soft tyre, "qualifiers" (or finals) type stuff, for that extra little bit. _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:41 pm
Spockie-Tech Site Admin
Joined: 31 May 2004
Posts: 3160
Location: Melbourne, Australia
quote:Originally posted by Valen:
we didnt seem to have any problem with whatever that pile of bolts brett had was.. after all our rounds our urithane treaded wheels are showing only a few minor nicks in them.
Ah yes, but that was Inspector General Mk 1. You havent seen Mark II yet
Variety in ones diet is always a good thing.. Red Wheels, Colsons and now Urithane Wheels.. mmMMmm
Seriously, nice wheels, $50 for a pair is a bit more than $8 for a pair of Red Wheels, but if they come with nice adapter hubs and the tread stands up to some abuse they good be a good seller.. Time Will Tell. _________________ Great minds discuss ideas. Average minds discuss events. Small minds discuss people
Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:52 pm
Valen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney
we were trying to work out how to make an adaptor for the red wheels so they could be propperly mounted to the shaft of the drill. and eventually we decided this would be cheaper.
glen says he goes through a set of red wheels every event (and i've seen him do 2 or 3 changes ;-P)
other reason we are doing this is it should protect the gearboxes (that was actually our prime motivation), we wanted something that would give the gearbox a bit of time to decelerate when it does that whole flying through the air whilst driving and landing pointing backwards. It wont be much but quite an improvement over a red wheel i think.
could we collect some stats on how the drill gearboxes fail? _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:02 am
Glen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect
only time ive lost a gearbox is when on cobra 1 (the little lexan box with blue hammer) when the tread peeled off and i started driving on the wooden wheels and it snapped off a pin. twice that happened.
ive seen nick do in a few. all where of the pins IIRC. also jeff j has broken a few with his massive wheels.
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect
ive been playing around with these two wheels now and they get my approval thus far.
endless amounts of traction yet the mildly compressible (squigy even lol) tread really reduces the shock. i dropped it today from about waist height and it did 3 bounces of the ground before settling back down.
pushing power is way up, the things are nice and easy to screw straight onto the thread (after you get all the red wheel crap out of the drill thread lol) .
best of all the things dont wear out fast. i reckon i could go at least half a season if was going full out non stop every fight.
Joined: 20 Jul 2004
Posts: 2523
Location: Victoria
Could you make me some 4inch ones sometime after the next robowars and ill see how they go?
How much do they weigh? _________________ Tim Team Reaper.
Mon Oct 18, 2004 7:51 pm
Glen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect
they are about 4" (about 100mm) already, and i think they weigh about 10 grams more than a read wheel. they are also about half the width as well which is damn handy. _________________ www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz
Mon Oct 18, 2004 7:53 pm
timmeh Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 20 Jul 2004
Posts: 2523
Location: Victoria
hmm sounds like ill be getting some then for home use to save my colsens for battles _________________ Tim Team Reaper.
Mon Oct 18, 2004 8:02 pm
andrew
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 3110
Location: Castle Hill, Sydney. N.S.W
ill check them out either next event or next time i see Glen. May buy myself a pair for next season also. Depends though because for 50 bucks for 2 wheels they would have to wow me a great deal for that.
Also Kerrison Bros- i remember reading back on u guys bought a tap for drill shaft thread for modyfying wheels. Just wondeirng what u guys did, what size the tap was and how its working for u. _________________ Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics
Mon Oct 18, 2004 8:11 pm
Valen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney
you mean use the colsens to save these for battles?
;-P _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Mon Oct 18, 2004 8:45 pm
timmeh Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 20 Jul 2004
Posts: 2523
Location: Victoria
Well there both the same price butt the colsens are only 126grams each with hubs and i can see them staying together better so ill see how i go _________________ Tim Team Reaper.
Mon Oct 18, 2004 8:48 pm
kkeerroo Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 1459
Location: Brisbane
quote:Originally posted by andrew:
Also Kerrison Bros- i remember reading back on u guys bought a tap for drill shaft thread for modyfying wheels. Just wondeirng what u guys did, what size the tap was and how its working for u.
Why yes I did. The tap size is 3/8" 24 UNF. Its a yankee tap so its a bit hard to find. Read the botl section in the help section to know what I mean.
I also brought some timing belt pully's at the same time. The pully's had aliminium hub with a 1/4" bore, which is the prefect size for my tap (convenient huh? ). I then ran the tap down though the timing pully hub and it just screwed straight onto the drill. I don't know about doing this to wheels as I havn't got any with that small a bore.
And more to the topic the wheels were then scooter wheels with the other pully bolted to the side with an axial (a 5/16" bolt) running though its bearings. _________________ Get Some!!!
Secretary of the Queensland Robotics Sports Club inc.
Tue Oct 19, 2004 1:06 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
@ Andrew - I may have the proper tap, but if not I can get one very easily or you could go to the Lee Bros 'Nut House'. They should be 6-8 dollars. Make sure you ask for UN
F
or you will get the more common UNC (coarse) thread. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
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