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Raiden - Team Aurora - NSW
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
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Location: Gold Coast


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The closest thing you will find would be road profiler tips or tub grinder bits. The road profiler tips, which make those lovely score marks in roads, usually have tungsten carbide tips and tub grinder bits, used to mulch tree stumps, usually weigh about 500g each for a light one. If you want to buy that sort of thing you need to buy at least 100 at a time. Consumable castings arn't really good for robots unless you know where to find rejects, and I havn't found any small ones yet.
Thats why I designed my own water cut version.

Post Fri May 19, 2006 8:37 am 
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Valen
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carbide is pretty brittle though (from what i've seen), it will chip off i'd think (when it gets a good solid hit in on the wall say)

could be good if you can get it to "self sharpen" but apart from that...
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Post Fri May 19, 2006 10:14 am 
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Daniel
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Well the guys that spend all the money to stick the tungsten carbide on their road profiling tips don't seem to complain. But then again roads might be softer then I think since I have a tungsten tipped tree grinder bit here that had a rock get into the machine and pretty much caused the tip to explode.
I was thinking tool steel myself.

Post Fri May 19, 2006 11:26 am 
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Totaly_Recycled
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i would go with a tool steel or spring steel that could be anealed then driled then re- hardend
car springs are a good source of re-temerable?(spelling ) steel the blacksmiths at a place i worked used to make pick heads and crow bar tips for people out of them you can buy tool steel in bar or flat that can be worked then hardened for makeing chisels and things from .

Post Fri May 19, 2006 11:51 am 
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Nick
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You could probably get car leaf springs from PnP cheaply. They could be drilled with cobalt HSS drills or carbide drills without annealing - you wouldn't get much life from an ordinary HSS bit. You could probably cut a tooth profile with an angle grinder, then carefully grind back the heat affected zone on a bench grinder. It would be worth going to PnP & getting a spring from a 4WD just to see what they charge...
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Post Fri May 19, 2006 12:08 pm 
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Valen
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They are going for abrasion resistance, not impact.
Sandpaper is very resistant to abrasion, you can "cut" steel with the stuff, you can tear it in half with your hands though.

thats what i was saying about brittle, its strong yes, but its not tough.
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Post Fri May 19, 2006 11:58 pm 
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Nick
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What do you think about car springs? It's not tool steel by a long shot, but if a leaf spring cost around $15 from PnP and you could cut around ten teeth (at least) from it, then it's a bargain!
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Post Sat May 20, 2006 12:56 am 
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Glen
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that would work well, but do the springs flatten out when you unbolt them all or do they retain their curved profile
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Post Sat May 20, 2006 1:02 am 
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Nick
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Good question, I would guess the shorter bottom springs might almost flatten out but not the full length ones. For short lengths needed for teeth, a tiny bit of curvature probably isn't going to matter.
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Post Sat May 20, 2006 1:06 am 
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Glen
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finally got both wheel slots cut out and one drive attached. i need to grind out the wheel slots on the front but aside from that the tolerances are pretty tight. about 5mm on either side. good stuff.
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Post Sat May 20, 2006 8:27 pm 
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Glen
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both wheels on and working. yipee


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Post Thu May 25, 2006 12:12 pm 
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Totaly_Recycled
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Looks good glen iff you have any spare weight i would sugest putting a couple of angled pieces on the front near the blade as well so you dont have that square edde exposed Very Happy

Post Fri May 26, 2006 7:44 am 
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Glen
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well well aaron produced a good idea for once xD so i think ill take that and run with it as its solved a hell of alot of problems!!

firstly im going to put that thicker box section on the front. so the front will be pretty well totally covered up. nice and armoured Smile



no space for pullies? that is correct because im now going to use a pair of mini EVs to power it that sit up the front and power the outer rim of the flywheel friction drive. i believe the calculated speed is about 7500rpm so lets assume 4000 and thats good enough for me Smile

this also means i can knock it down to 12v power and half the weight in batteries meaning more armour! and more space inside to play with which is a god send. and spare batteries too.

shouldnt take too long to make now i have this worked out. good good
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Post Fri May 26, 2006 10:08 pm 
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dyrodium
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Cut down that cad you n00b XD
That idea sounds good, will be good to see how it works. Smile
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Post Fri May 26, 2006 10:13 pm 
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Glen
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why you dont even have to pan across to see the actual cad lol stop whinging

same goes for everyone else xD
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Post Fri May 26, 2006 10:14 pm 
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