Is it all 3 or can it be just the weopon controll. that all dangerous parts of a robot must shut off if anything goes wrong.

If a robot goes out of controll it will most likely slam in the wall and spin its wheels.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

Doesnt matter, if you turn the radio off, everything moving must *stop*. Drive included sorry.

Its all very well to rely on the arena to protect you, but if for any reason your bot was running anywhere else, you need a way to stop it once it cant "hear" you any more.

Having a failsafe has already saved us from some embarrassing situations that I'm not going to tell everyone about in public. If you could be certain your bot was always in an arena when powered up, you wouldnt need a failsafe at all..

besides, its makes insurance/risk people feel much better when they hear that all bots have to completely stop when the radio link is down
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Great minds discuss ideas. Average minds discuss events. Small minds discuss people

I have two options with myweapon drive sytem and i cant decide which one to go with.

The ev motor will be running at 18v 3000rpm.

Should i go 1000rpm 1-3 reduction = more drive power

Or 1500rpm 1-2 reduction = more speed

Which one would be more destructive?
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Tim Team Reaper.

Well since u r using a ev warrior then a 1:1 reduction is fine. Basilsik ev warior version mounted a solid steel bar directly to the motor for ahnialator and it spun that sucker up in no time at 12 volt. 24 volt or 18 will be unrealistically crazy and cool.

if u gearsomething down u slow it down but speed up the spin up time.

In your case u do not need any reduction and a 1:1 belt drive or whatever would be fine i reckon for a vertical blade.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

the original Basilisk was actually running two parallel 14.4V NiMh packs and spun its bar up in just a few seconds.

For destruction, more speed is always better! More weight is OK and more torque is good for recovery time, but speed wins the fight for you . THe EV at 1:1 and 24V will be plenty, just make sure its held down firmly.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Can evs run at 36v
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Tim Team Reaper.

nope, unless you want to end up with a BRUSHLESS motor
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

what about 30v?
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Tim Team Reaper.

I've heard of some of the EV's on 24v becoming brushless on stalls
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

Why is that?
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Tim Team Reaper.

well on the large stall, the brushes start arcing and sometimes they blow the tails off the brushes.
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

Ok didnt know that one.

If i do that for any reason i will fix it with larger braded wire.

And wile im in the motor i will glue the magnets in place.
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Tim Team Reaper.

i somehow doubt replacing the brushes with braided wire will work.

a 24v ev warrior is almost an invincible motor from what ive heard if you just belt drive it (i.e no direct drive). theres a few 1:1 featherweight spinners out there. road dots revenge and ZOK come to mind. but i guess at 18v 2:1 would probably do the trick.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Here is a pic of the EV brush assembly:

http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=242

I don't think the braid can be replaced even if its a bit thin. It feels like about 14g wire and will probably get really hot during a stall, but how does one attach copper to graphite reliably? There is also the problem of that thin slot that the braid runs in...
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

i dont think you can attach copper to graphite
graphite is pretty damn slippery stuff
i believe that generally the copper is there and the brush is moulded/deposited around it?
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets