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is it time
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Rotwang
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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One of the other POP, s that has been gathering dust around here has received a revised priority.
Brett Rotor Blade originally conceived as a hobby weight has been re designed as a feather and construction has started.
Personally I would not have one in the Rotwang team but I don’t mind building one for Brett. Twisted Evil

Post Fri Jul 09, 2004 7:52 pm 
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marto
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Yeah i agree with whats been said that limiting weapon power isn't going to happen. Doing damage is the whole point of combat robotics.

Those poor EVs. You killed 3 of em. My budget prolly wouldn't allow for a spare.

In BudgetBot I just used a peice of pipe that did fit snuggly over the weapon shaft. Its sort of taken a beating and the stainless steel shaft can wobble a little. The only problem with this is the length of the mounting peice. That is partly the reason why BBs angle that it cuts at is so steep.
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Post Fri Jul 09, 2004 10:04 pm 
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Knightrous
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No more toy fan motors I assume Gary Wink Personally, I'd like to see you guys up scale Flying Saucer to featherweights, giving that Ziggo style to the competition.
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Post Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:01 pm 
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Valen
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nick, if you can give us some specs for that AL you wanted machined i'll have a go at making it up, though generally its best to have the bearing on hand if you are trying for a press fit. (mainly because of our massive accuracy skills lol *take a little off, nope too small, take some more off, close... little more... crap too big)

same for glen et al.

we have a fairly full machine shop here (though lightweight in some respects)
tig welder, lathe, drill press, etc.
we can even do some vertical milling on the lathe (think little things)

so if you want some stuff made, get in contact, we'd like to put stuff to use and if i can get enough cash out of it that i dont have to do night fill at bunnings or somethng for pocket money so much the better.

special rates if you tell us the weak points in your robots ;->

Post Sat Jul 10, 2004 3:23 pm 
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Glen
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the corners on cobra are the place to attack Very Happy

can i get a qoute on how much it would cost to basically have a copy of plan b's weapon assembly. im after the pulleys, disc (maybe a little different in size) shaft and the hub you used to keep it on with.
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Post Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:06 pm 
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Nick
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Hi Jake,

I'll PM you the secret weak spot Wink

I have amost finished the drawings of the bearing housing and I will be ordering the bearing itself next week. It's a paying job anyway so I would much rather give it to another roboteer than some place that "Doesn't get it". Do you have an indexing head? I want to put either a 4 or 8 point bolt circle around the edge of the housing. If you don't I will just cook something up at home.

If that all sounds OK, I will look at getting the ali stock next week as well. I will get 2024 grade if its available, otherwise 6061.

I still have 3 EV motors for you too - no guarantees on them though. If the bearing works out, you might want to make some for yourself.
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Post Sat Jul 10, 2004 10:31 pm 
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Valen
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nick, wont need an indexing head, just mark it and drill it, it wont make that much of a difference if one of the bolts is out by half a mm (though they shouldnt be). Be wary of putting too many bolts in too close, the motor casing is pretty weak and your going to be adding holes to it.

Glen, easiest way will probbly be to get the disk laser cut, or at least roughed out (worst case we can grind it out) so it will fit in the lathe. If you get it laser cut it should be fairly cheap and it will have the teeth already done. I'm looking into ways of hardening the tooth tips up so they wont deform like ours did. Then we can weld it onto the shaft and bolt the pully to it. Does your motor have any flats or such on the shaft? etc.
also did you want your A's welded?

we also can make belts (of the one size lol) I think they are about 200mm but i'd have to check. Multi rib V belts, most commercial belts start at 330 or so. our belts are best on our pully's, we havent tried them with other commercial belts yet

Post Sat Jul 10, 2004 10:46 pm 
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Nick
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That all sounds good. The indexing head was just icing. If you recall, the EV has 8 vent holes on the face. I figure that another eight M4 holes between these will be strongest as they are near the edge of the face. The forces on the screws will mainly be shear forces & I wouldn't think the screws will pull out or deform in the 1.8mm steel, particularly if its fronted with this massive (it really is) bearing housing. Will there be any problems parting off a 90mm wide cylinderical part?

Another thing that needs doing is to cut out the center of the face around the existing bearing hole. It is 19mm and the bearings I am looking at need about 30 mm clearance. I figure you could put the whole motor case in the chuck and use a boring bar to cut out the centre of the face, or I can make a jig and cut it in the drill press with a hole saw.
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Post Sat Jul 10, 2004 11:55 pm 
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Valen
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i was worried about the thing deforming the steel. you may wish to use the bearing block to mount the front of the motor?

our bearing mounts are in around 1cm of solid glass.

to make a 90mm part we would bandsaw it then face it off.

cutting that case shouldnt be a problem but it really either needs drawings or to be looking at the part cos i'm struggling to see what your talking about lol

Post Sun Jul 11, 2004 12:07 am 
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Nick
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I will send you a drawing soon. Until then, look at the bearing blocks at CNCbot parts http://www.cncbotparts.com/bearing_blocks.htm - scale them up to take a 35 by 10mm bearing and make the block cyclindrical rather than square. That's about what I need.

I also need a new axle. it is mostly 17mm with a stepped section to index against the back of the bearing and an 8mm central bore to accomodate the existing shaft in the EV armature.

I wouldnt worry about the steel deforming, it didn't bend at all with the armature rattling around during the tag fights.
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Post Sun Jul 11, 2004 1:18 am 
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Glen
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quote:
Glen, easiest way will probbly be to get the disk laser cut, or at least roughed out (worst case we can grind it out) so it will fit in the lathe. If you get it laser cut it should be fairly cheap and it will have the teeth already done. I'm looking into ways of hardening the tooth tips up so they wont deform like ours did. Then we can weld it onto the shaft and bolt the pully to it. Does your motor have any flats or such on the shaft? etc.
also did you want your A's welded?


okay ill check into laser cutting. thatll probably allow me to have that odd shaped disc i was after. would you know of any laser cutting places off the top of your head?

the motor itself has an 8mm shaft poking out the top. so it has to be a motor with a shaft as opposed to the flat plate and im assuming there is a double flat on the shaft too (still have to get the nut grinded off.)

with the A frame its going to be some aluminium tube to keep the weight down, i believe its about 15x30x3mm so its quite tough. if i could get that welded that would be great.
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Post Sun Jul 11, 2004 2:56 pm 
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andrew



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Dont u worry. The Andrew Welch grinding service will be round tomorrow Smile.

I love my grinder.
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Post Sun Jul 11, 2004 3:25 pm 
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Knightrous
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God help us all...... Shocked
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Post Mon Jul 12, 2004 7:33 pm 
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Nick
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quote:
would you know of any laser cutting places off the top of your head?


There are quite a few if you hunt thru the Yellow pages but they are often large quantity or specialised. I suggest looking a waterjet places like O'brien's.

They will all want a CAD file and/or CNC file
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Post Mon Jul 12, 2004 11:01 pm 
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DumHed
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I've had a few things laser cut for my car (turbo inlet / outlet flanges, etc) and they've been done by an exhaust shop near my work.

Their machine is pretty old tech, but very easy. You just draw the design on paper and it follows the lines Smile
For things that don't need mega accuracy it's quick and effective.
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Post Mon Jul 12, 2004 11:33 pm 
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