yeah i read about loctite a while back when i was searching for a solvent that would remove it (coke works a treat ), sposed to be anaerobic so it reacts with air so flooding the thing doesnt work.

but i just got some 222 and did up one side of cobras drive. so ill see if it works well enough.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

quote:

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Originally posted by Glen:
i was a bit hesitant at using loctite, i used it on an old robot and i had to drill the screw out when i had to change the wheel...

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well i go a different method i use a nut screwed on to the drive shaft and keep it about 2 to 3 mm off it and attach the wheel the normal way and wedgh them on i havent been able to un screw the wheels but under battle condition it might change
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For West ausies interested in robotics email me at: theoneshrug@hotmail.com
OR
dragoonarie@gmail.com
best quote ever:: "Those Gas-Turbine style warehouse heaters arent illegal, and neither is remote controlling one as far as I know."

On Annihilation we use started using a bit of super dupper glue on the threads of the left hand screw. This worked pretty good and we haven't had one come loose since we did that.
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

Yer and when we tryed to get the screw off me and "sorry forgot his name" couldent unscrew it lol
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Tim Team Reaper.

<off topic advertisement>

Got any smashed/broken/stripped drill gearboxes? If so, go here: http://www.robowars.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=355
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

I buy nuts which fit the drill shaft and make a plate to bolt the wheels to. Then if there's a welder much more skilled than me around (dad) and a bucket of water. I get dad to tack the nut to shaft. Very permanent and have to cool them quickly but has never come undone and you can still unbolt the wheel to replace it .
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Steven Martin
Twisted Constructions
http://www.botbitz.com

just had a look at my loctite bottle and it appears ive got the flavour 243 super nut lock... no wonder the screws didnt come out
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

I stripped out the black centre on one of my red wheels when i modified it for my AC 75mm wheels and i just added some Supa 101 to the drill shaft and black centre's stripped thread and put it on. it now has a strong thread and isn't spinning on the drill shaft. Also did this with the left hand screws and they are not budging!

w00t for Supa 101!
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

huzza we found the solution

glue the red wheels onto the shaft and loctite the left hand screw in.. exxcellent
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

that sounds gfood but one thing jeff did with scraps huge wooden wheels ages back was forcing a right hand threadd screw/bolt into the left hand thread thing as it tapps its own holes and it did not loosen much if at all and did not come out once that i could remember.

ALso it was not as mandatory as loctiting everything in place.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

i have a right hand bolt drill, it has come undone but then i swapped the drives around so that both drills tighten themselves up when its driving.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

thats interesting. a right hand bolt drill. what brand name/type please glen if possible


also it prob came undone because it was tapped.

the way jeff did it was that u had to FORCE it in so it cut its own thread and u had to foce the screw undone.

It never came undone unless U undid it with the correct allen key etc etc.

need to find those screws and redo taht me thinks as i have suffered i think 3 wheel fallin undscrewing incidents. latest being when i was defeating robort.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

lol you air head, i have like 2 drills jeff and i hacked up like that.

whats the point of a right hand thread drill anyway... it would just unscrew when you drilled something.. think about it
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Another thing i have tried (but not on the red wheels yet)But on those bigger dia white wheels that are a sloppy fit on the drill shaft .

The nuts from most push bikes are the same thread as the drill chuck . I steal the thinner lock nuts and run them on to an old bike axle that has the axel turned down to a blunt point .
i put a small smear of anti sieze compuond on the threads then run the nut on the axle so it has about 10mm of bolt with the point sticking through the nut .

i mount the wheel so the hole is faceing up and it cant wobble .

Then i light my portable gas stove and put the end of the axle with the nut in the flames for about 3 minutes .I also clamp on a pair of vise grips on the end at 90 degrees so i can hold it

Then comes the tricky part (actualy is not real tricky jut make sure you are useing nice dry leather gloves.)

Take the hot axle holding it with the vise grips and center it over the hole in the wheel push down squarely but not real hard untill the nut melts its way into the plasic and is flush with the top of the original plastic .as soon as it is there pour some water on the axel and wheel ( or better stil get some one else to pour it that way you can keep the axel nice and straight .keep pouring it on slow until the axel has cooled . Hold the axel with the vise grips and unscrew the wheel .

The center hole might need a small drill run into it ..just use your fingers so you dont drill into the nut ..or push a thin screw driver through and scprape out the blob of plastic that some times forms in the hole .

Now you just screw the wheel on the drill gear box and put the washer and left hand screw in .

i havent had any of these fail yet the melted in hex on the nut seems to hold better then just the pressure of a washer on the sides .

The only problem ive had so far is that i tried to replace a wheel on the Cheeze Schredder the other day and took the screw out but couldn't undo the wheel lol .It might need a run around with the screw out .