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Micro-switch controler
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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Location: Sydney


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Micro-switch controler

Hi! Now, for my first bot I am using a cheap car radio and reciever. I saw on sat that afew people were using servo's to directly switch on the moters via micro-switches Though I know this usualy results in violent gittering, I am going to use some kind of interfierence muffler. Anyone have a layout that is really effective? And any things I should know before starting? Thanks. Smile
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 12:32 pm 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
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servo switching generally only results in full on/full off controll

andrew of qld i think has done some things with drill trigger controlls so you have proportioinal controll
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 12:43 pm 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
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You should try to come up with the $300 or so to buy speedos if you are wanting to realy get into robots. Chris did just win the NSW comp without them to put forward a balanced view.

Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 1:22 pm 
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Valen
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note also he has been in the most rounds so there may be some correlation there ;->

further analisis shows a correlation of 0.77 between battles entered and battles won ;->
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 1:47 pm 
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andrew



Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Castle Hill, Sydney. N.S.W


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well orbit was using the drill trigger speed controllers last event and they did work really well i must say.

The only reason i did bad was because teh weight wasnt good over wheels and thus wheel spin and skid plate having too much friction.

also a wheel undid itself against robort and thus couldnt go forward and was stuck in getting flipped.


grr. next time robort.
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 2:54 pm 
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dyrodium
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Andrew, mabey you could help me make some drill trigger speed controlers? (I have NO idea how Confused )
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 4:04 pm 
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Glen
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well angus what you begineer doesnt use switches? myself, andrew, wayde, and steve up in queensland have so theres nothing *too* wrong with switches.

no such thing as an interference muffler as such, i guess the closest thing is a failsafe which cost about $30. basically if it gets some bad signals itll shut the radio down and stop the bot in its tracks. thats why its a requirement to have a failsafe in the weapon.

the general servo switching mechanism used 4x microswitches and 2x servos, one microswitch works the left side foward, another backwards and another the right side fowards and another backwards etc

i can send a wiring digram if you need it.
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 4:16 pm 
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andrew



Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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angus. jeffs the fella to chat to about drill triggers. he amde the pair i used and that worked so well.

I did make up two with his help but had problems with blowing them up and it not being alligned correctly etc
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 5:01 pm 
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DumHed
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interference filtering for microswitch systems just involves a bit of clearance between the servo arm and the switch, so the servo can jitter a bit without switching anything.
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 5:24 pm 
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Waddy the phoenix



Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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lol angus servo switching is perfect for a begineri ran the first 3 or 4 rounds with the ssu (servo switching unit) the drill spedos (a:ssu) then there is actual spedos like the ibc if we had the a:ssu around when i went to upgrade i probably would have gone to a:ssu before ibc you could also do what i did and make up a working tiny timber version to get running then you can transfer it directally over to the armored variety you want Very Happy
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Post Mon Nov 29, 2004 6:00 pm 
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Giant Robo
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Joined: 17 Jun 2004
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Location: Marayong NSW


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Hi Angus,
First of all can you give us some more details about your remote control. If it is a basic, 2 chanel transmitter and reciever with two servos, thats is perfect to start with, or stick with. Glens` Cobra is a 2 chanel robot and you have seen what he can do. You need extra chanels when you want to have active weapons; that is, for turning on saws, drills etc.

However Andrew (Dumhead) did rig up a method to activate a weapon using 2 chanels alone.

I have always used servo/ micro switches and so does Chris and I have never had radio problems or servo twitching unless the reciever batteries were nearly flat. The drill trigger system is the next step up from that and just abit tricky to set up but these ways I love because they are so CHEAP!

If your radio is good to go the best thing to start with will be a pair of Bunnings XU1 cordless drills, less than $40 for both you can use practically every part of them.

More later,

Cheers for now,

Jeff.

Post Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:56 am 
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dyrodium
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It's a basic 2 channel controler with two servos. A layout diagram would be nice. I have been trying to work out the wiring, but it needs to change the current to the moter with each microswitch. It's very confusing! By the waay, I meant ferite beads for interfearance.
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Post Tue Nov 30, 2004 9:54 am 
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Woody



Joined: 07 Oct 2004
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Angus .....You'll need 2 microswitches per servo and one servo for each motor.

Each microswitch should have 3 connections the COM ( common ) connection
goes 2 your motor ..... take the remaining 2 connections and put one onto the positive of your battery ....
the other to your negative.

Do the same with the second micro switch and connect to the other side of your motor.

Place the switches either side of your servo arm .....the servo arm pressing on one switch will give you forwards ....
pressing on the other reverse ...and arm in the center ( both switches off ) should give you a braked stop.

Hope that makes sense.

Circuit diagram Here:-
http://www.teamonslaught.fsnet.co.uk/DPST.gif

Regards Woody

Post Tue Nov 30, 2004 10:21 am 
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dyrodium
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Sorry if I sounded confusing in the last post, I know you need 2 microswitches per motor, but I was trying to do it in the 1min left of my recess. Thanks for the diagram Very Happy .
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Post Tue Nov 30, 2004 12:12 pm 
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Ajax
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quote:
no such thing as an interference muffler as such, i guess the closest thing is a failsafe which cost about $30. basically if it gets some bad signals itll shut the radio down and stop the bot in its tracks. thats why its a requirement to have a failsafe in the weapon.


The rules state that ALL Motors must have a failsafe.. This includes the drive train, not Just a Weapon motor
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Post Tue Nov 30, 2004 7:58 pm 
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