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just wondering
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Nick
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@ Mario: I am just looking for the best way to get all the enamel off all the strands. The motor leads will be soldered to a MT 60 connector, so all the leads will be the same length.

@ Glen: ever tried paint stripper? Its the first thing on my list to experiment with. I tried burning the enamel off, but it doesn't seem reliable when there are many thin strands.
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Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:57 am 
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Philip
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Is it possible to replace the wire rather than stripping it?
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Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:20 am 
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maddox



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@ Philip. Most brushless motor leads are extensions of the windings with shrinkwrap. So, no, the removal of the enamel still is important to solder the leads.

@ Nick, removing enamel from copper.
As Glen points out, heat will do. But that involves risks.
Chemicaly, it depends on kind of enamel used. You don't have a gaschromatograph handy?

Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:29 am 
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Nick
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Good news and bad news:

I tried out several on-line recommendations on one of Decimator's burnt out motors. An extra hot 425 C soldering iron did nothing except leave some flux residue and a little solder on the cut ends of the wires. Soldering at the same temperature on an asprin also did nothing except create a lot of dangerous smoke and leave a sticky residue on the wire.

Dipping in dichloromethane paint stripper for 10 minutes removed about 10% of the enamel. This paint stripper usually melts any paint, the applicator brush AND your rubber gloves!

Flaming the wires and then dipping them in paint stripper got about 75% of the enamel off but there was still a residue on many wires that needs to be scraped off. I don't know what brand of motor this is (probably Scorpion), but its made with super tough wire. The only on-line technique I didn't try was a hot bath in molten caustic soda and salt - I don't have enough protective gear or life insurance for that Laughing

The good news:

After all the above, I tried a hot soldering iron on the actual wire of the new motor for Mr Mangle: it seems it uses low temperature 'solder-through' enamel and the solder flowed right on after some heating up. I just hope that doesn't translate into an easily damaged motor but the problem is solved.
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Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:19 pm 
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Valen
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if your motor windings are 260C you're gonna have a bad time either way ;->
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Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:17 pm 
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Nick
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Yeah, there is that. Perhaps I should wipe a little epoxy over the windings just to keep them from moving when the enamel is softer from heating.
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Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:32 pm 
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timnew



Joined: 19 Jun 2015
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sorry if we have a battery thread already.

Just wondering the best way to solder lips cells/tabs into packs. i know commercial packs have pcb's that the tabs slot into to make em solid and secure from crushing etc.

any help would be appreciated.

Post Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:15 am 
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Nick
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All the packs I have used recently skip the PCB and just solder the tabs directly to each other. They use little blocks of high density foam under the tabs to hold everything in place and then have layers of kapton tape and thicker plastic film over the tabs to protect them.

It sounds dodgy but works well. The PCB sounds like it should be even better if it was combined with the foam blocks; maybe its due to cost & complexity? If you are making multiple packs, perhaps its worth getting some PCBs made by a cheap prototyping service.

Another protection 'trick' I like is to use heavy vinyl heatshink, which you can get on line from InsulTab. It is much thicker than regular tube and much harder to puncture or tear.
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Post Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:46 am 
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Philip
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What should 3 mm mild steel cost? I am looking at about 360 mm * 1200 mm (or whatever the standard size is). I hope to buy some soon and just want to know roughly what to expect.
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Post Tue May 03, 2016 4:55 pm 
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Glen
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A full 2.4x1.2 sheet is about $100
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Post Tue May 03, 2016 5:13 pm 
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Philip
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Wow. Thanks.
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Post Tue May 03, 2016 5:16 pm 
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Nick
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Paintball tanks

Has anyone successfully bought paintball tanks internationally? I just got an email that the empty CO2 tank I bought with a pile of fittings in the US can't be shipped as it is "flammable".

While that sounds crazy, there is no arguing with shipping companies, so I wonder if its just that brand of tank or if it is a general thing.

Update:

Following on from that, the cheapest tank I can find in Sydney is $59 - does that sound about right for a local price? Ebay is no help as all the ads are from US suppliers and the cheapest Aussie price I have found is $42 in Queensland.
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Post Thu May 05, 2016 10:00 am 
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Glen
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40-60 is about right. I got my 20oz ones from a paintball place near richmond and the 12oz came from the qld place you probably refer, though last time i spoke they said they weren't getting more CO2 gear in as most paintballs are using HPA now.

http://www.paintballaustralia.com.au/Co2.htm
https://www.propaintballshop.com.au/airsystems/ozito-20oz-co2-tank.html
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Post Thu May 05, 2016 12:06 pm 
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Nick
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Thanks; Pro Paintball is the place I was looking at. I might still be able to get the original tanks (cost is only $21 AUD) if they can be shipped with the valves removed. I figure is the tanks are open, they can't possibly be classified as dangerous. If not, I will dash out to Richmond on the weekend.
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Post Thu May 05, 2016 12:12 pm 
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Daniel
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I got paintball tanks from USA without any problem. Ended up costing the same as buying them locally.

Post Thu May 05, 2016 7:51 pm 
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