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Micro Magnum, Team Magnum, NSW
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Ah I see...
Thanks for the info.

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 6:50 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Another question came up: how many channels do I need? I have two drive motors and two weapon motors... So maybe four? (But then I wonder if the two weapon motors count as one channel or two...)

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 6:55 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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Your two motors need two channels.

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 7:45 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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I wonder if it would be possible to bind two channels to one movement (e.g. right stick up)?

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 7:46 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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That's kind of what mixing does. When you push one of your sticks up, both channels go forward. If you move the stick left one goes forward and one goes backward. If you move the stick back, both run in reverse.

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 8:01 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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OK I see...

I wonder if it's possible to do some custom mixing (i.e. when I push a stick up both weapon motors rev up, but when I move the stick left or right the two motors will still go at the same speed. In other words maybe disabling the x-axis.).

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 8:15 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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The weapon motors run on the throttle channel and you will need to wire their ESC inputs together - they don't need mixing. The steering channels on the other stick are the ones that get the mixing.
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Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 9:36 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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I wonder how would I wire two inputs together... Is it more like soldering the two wires together, or is it a special splitter wire?

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 10:01 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Hobbyking may sell a splitter or 'Y' cable, or you can buy the connectors for a couple of dollars & make your own. Another option on a more sophisticated transmitter is to slave an auxiliary channel to the throttle channel to avoid needing the special cable. I haven't tried that but I know its possible.
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Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 10:05 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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https://hobbyking.com/en_us/jr-y-servo-lead-15cm-length-5pcs-bag.html

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 10:16 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Ah I see now...

Thank you, guys.

Post Thu Jun 01, 2017 11:21 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Well... More questions: what gauge of wire do you use in your featherweights? I used a gauge calculator and it was telling me funny things like 2AWG.

Also what type of screw head (philips, allen, etc) and what grade (10.9, 12.9, etc) do people think should be used in combots?

Post Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:34 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


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16-12g silicone wire (hobbyking)

Socket head, button head countersunk hex head, whatever you can get, usually 10.9 from a bolt shop.

I think time for you to start building and less overthinking. Almost universally most first robots have some failing so may as well get it over and done with and you'll end up answering 99% of these questions yourself through experience!
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Post Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:47 pm 
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Nick
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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+1 on the socket head screws - phillips head & similar suck! For a high current spinner you might want to use 10g wire from the battery to a main distribution point, then 12g for the weapon motor and 14g for the drive motors.
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UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Post Sun Jun 04, 2017 6:42 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Thanks guys. I will probably go planning out the circuit with varying gauges.

Construction is actually underway, sort of. I've found someone to do the Ali parts & PC parts. As for the wearplate parts, I'm still waiting for a reply from DMG. They told me to send pdf drawings alongside with the CADs, but I haven't heard from them since then.

Ordered a lot of parts in the past few days, but I probably won't start building until after my finals...

Post Sun Jun 04, 2017 7:40 pm 
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