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Warbros - Andre NSW
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evil_steve



Joined: 06 Sep 2015
Posts: 304
Location: Adelaide, SA


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Could you use a v-tail mixer, like this?

Post Mon Apr 04, 2016 11:23 pm 
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Newcastle


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From the quick read about how those v-tail mixers work I think it'd do the trick. It'll have to wait for the hobbyking order list to get a bit longer though.

From my reading updating the firmware on the transmitter should give me some more options too, but I don't have the USB cord for it :S

And I just found out the USB cord will allow me to play computer games (Robot Arena 2, and 3 when it comes out) using the transmitter - which should make for some good practice.

Post Mon Apr 04, 2016 11:47 pm 
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marto
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The USB cord is just usb to serial converter if you are desperate.

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Post Tue Apr 05, 2016 6:15 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Dude in that photo of the frame it looks like your motors are attached by the motors themselves rather than plastic gear box- they must be aytached by the gearbox as the drill 550 Motors are only held in by 2 little screws that will snapp after first hit- ignore me if this has been spotted already😜
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Post Thu Apr 07, 2016 9:31 am 
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miles&Jules
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http://www.robowars.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1966 Here is how to mix that radio
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Post Thu Apr 07, 2016 9:42 am 
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Newcastle


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I kept staring at how the motors were mounted and decided that there was too much leverage on the box, so I'm going to put some additional Al section with a bearing that will support the shaft where it comes out of the gear box. The bearings arrived yesterday, so I'll have a crack at a mounting bracket for them this weekend. As well as putting the frame together.

That tute is for a Turnigy 9X, I've got a TGY-i6. Very similar, the mix settings are the same and I had already figured that part out but the TGY-i6 only lets me do 3 mixes and I need 4.

I'm not desperate yet Marto, but I do have a USB-to-serial lying around. So I'll see if I can update the firmware with that and hopefully I'll get another mix slot. Otherwise it's the V-tail mixer or bugging my mathematician friends and framing my problem as an 'interesting fundamental coding optimization' issue.

But yeah - thanks for all the advice so far guys!

Post Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:25 pm 
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Newcastle


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So the frame is coming together and I've got the bearings and designs for the additional motor brackets. I realized tonight that's it's less than two months to Vivid so I've got to get my workpants on!

I've also actually got a workbench in the shed now thanks to gumtree freebies - I even cut a hole into it and bolted the jigsaw in upside down so I've got a nice setup for cutting the polycarb. I tested it and it works.

The biggest hurdle now is driving the lifting arms from the window motors, I don't want to shove the arms straight on the shaft that comes out of the gear box because that will get bent for sure with the ramming that the arms will see. So I'm looking at a very short chain drive - it's an 8mm shaft out of the window motor and I've got a bunch of 10mm bearings and rod so I want to go from 8mm to 10mm bore all inside one piece of Al section with the sprockets right next to each other and a little gear reduction. Then the arms can be welded straight to the steel rod in the bigger sprocket and the rod can be anchored in two places through the Al section. Hard part is finding those parts - best I've found is from http://www.makeblock.cc/
If I go the faster postage it's $48, which doesn't seem to bad.

Post Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:59 pm 
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Newcastle


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The goal of this weekend was to find a way to mount the the 130mm white wheels from funnings. They have a 3/8 hole which is a touch too big for the shaft on the motor. I thought the driveshaft had a M10 thread on it because I tapped out the 90mm red wheels to M10 and they seemed to screw on.

Last weekend I tried to use the plastic adapter sleeves from the wheel section in funnings. I'd tapped out the white wheels to M12 and had this (dumb in retrospect) idea of making a thread converter going from M10 inner to M12 outer. Didn't work because the plastic wound up too thin and they broke during construction. I really was trying to do it that hardest way possible.

This weekend I went into the nearby hardware store, wit the plan of getting metal M12 bolts to drill hollow then tap the inside. I told the hardware guy my plan, we both agreed it sucked and he directed me at some M10 drop in anchors that seemed perfect. But of coarse this is where I find out the thread isn't M10, the metal thread on the anchor wasn't as compliant as the plastic on the red wheels and so that didn't work.

Thus I hunted around Newcastle's hardware stores to find out a: what the thread on these shafts is and b: if I can get any nuts that'll fit it. I managed to figure out that they are 3/8 UNF - but no-one in Newy had any 3/8 UNF bits. So I bought a full imperial tap and die set to get the one tap I wanted (I've wanted an imperial set ever since I got the metric one).

New plan was to use the adapter sleeves with the inner tapped and drill the axle on the wheel out to a snug 12mm and epoxy the sleeves in. Looks like it'll work, I just have to wait for this crud epoxy to dry. I got the cheap brand of epoxy at funnings and it's taking forever to set, I had the same problem with the last epoxy I used - which was also cheap. So next purchase will be some Araldite which has always served me well in the past. But the sleeves fit well and the motors screw nicely into the 3/8 UNF and there's space for me to put the little reverse thread screw down with a washer. I feel good now I've got this sorted.



Next step was cutting out more parts from the frame, which was really nice to do outside on Saturday arvo - not to mention partially necessary due to the lack of space and power in my shed.



The motor mounts now have a beefier section that will support the drive shaft and gearbox and the ESC and battery housings are cut. It's starting to get so dense with Al section it's hardly going to need the polycarb top and bottom!



The next job was to use some Al L-section and steel L-brackets to screw it all together. So I got up early today, headed outside and saw a storm from rolling in Sad Because I have to run an extension cord from the house to the shed I don't like working in the wet. Especially the amount of rain today, so instead I schmicked up all the wiring - my solder station is inside the house...



I'm pretty chuffed with how it turned out. The ESC bundle will be wrapped in bubble wrap and placed inside a bit of Al section. There's an old bicycle tube to protect the cables that will run between the two halves of the bot. I even used cable ties to tie cables! I think it's the first time ever I've used them for their 'intended' purpose.

I also ordered some v-tail mixers, the sprocket set from my last post, some RC controlled switches to do lights and some little 6V gear motors so I can build and Ant. On the mixing, there's a FB group for the turnigy/flysky users and from them it sounds like I can't do 4 mixes.

Next weekend if it's not dry I'm going to use my Dads shed lol. Hopefully I can get it driving.

Post Sun Apr 17, 2016 9:18 pm 
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evil_steve



Joined: 06 Sep 2015
Posts: 304
Location: Adelaide, SA


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I got these from bolt.com.au as well as some brass manifold nuts from a local place.

I love how the frame is coming together and how you're putting all the electronics inside the aluminium box section. I'm curious how the sprocket set goes, I suspect at some stage I'll have to rebuild my lifting mechanism to use something similar.

Post Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:04 pm 
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Cpnwolfe



Joined: 29 May 2012
Posts: 454
Location: Rockhampton/qld


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i spent hours the other day looking for #25 chain and sprockets thankyou!
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Post Mon Apr 18, 2016 5:46 am 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane


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This Australian shop sells #25 sprockets. The postage might be cheaper. https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/25-motor-sprockets/

This guy made his own wheel sprockets from aluminium. Step 10 https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/25-motor-sprockets/
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Post Mon Apr 18, 2016 7:21 pm 
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Newcastle


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quote:
Originally posted by Cpnwolfe:
i spent hours the other day looking for #25 chain and sprockets thankyou!


The stuff I ordered was 04C - which I don't think is the same as #25.

I got my sprockets today - only to find out the shaft that comes out of the motor doesn't spin - the plastic bracket behind it spins the cog...$#@&

Post Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:00 pm 
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Glen
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04C and #25 are interchangable. The only difference is some inconsequential amount of width on the sprocket. 0.075mm or something like that. 99% of EV bike stuff uses 04c so should be readily available. Also any engineering / bearing shop should stock them.
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Post Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:32 pm 
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Newcastle


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Nice, 04C and #25 being the same gives me more options. I did go to a bearing place here in Newy, but the guy really didn't have anything small - the industrial suppliers here are very industrial.

This longish weekend saw a lot of progress, but the two steps forward one step back kind...

I got some Al L-section to hold most of it together rather than the steel L-brackets as the longer pieces should be stronger - but more importantly my oversight with the L-brackets was that I physically couldn't put half of them in the inside corners with the bot being assembled. The L-section goes on the outside overcoming this issue.

Next was getting the sprocket to drive from the window motor...the best I could come up with was trying to cut grooves into the shaft of the sprocket so it could fit into the slot in the window motor like the original cog did. The only means of doing that that I have is to cut it freehand with the rotary tool...I wasn't anticipating success...So I used some purple nail polish on the slot to mark the cutting points on the sprocket and away I went:



It started to work, then I broke the $20 tungsten carbide cutting bit. As you can see I made a fair bot of progress on the first sprocket and it slides a small way into the slot, a new bit and more carefulness and it might actually work! I think I might start looking on gumtree for a mill though.

Next was a much easier job, making the gearbox bracket for the gearmotors. I embedded the bearings in some HDPE (chopping board):



At least this went smoothly! Fit perfect. Then I bolted the bearing bracket in to make the drill nice and happy:



I then done some more drilling and screwing to get the driving chassis together, I'm rather chuffed:



And a video of the first test drive, I've got some practice to do...

https://youtu.be/gaQFG37pmOU

Once I've got the sprockets into the window motors all I've got to do is setup the lifting arms, put the polycarb on and give it a good polish!

Post Mon Apr 25, 2016 10:19 pm 
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haz



Joined: 15 Aug 2011
Posts: 169


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Shiney and chrome brother Smile
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Post Tue Apr 26, 2016 4:05 am 
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