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marto
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
Posts: 5443
Location: Brisbane, QLD


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Want to come to Sydney....?

Got three weeks Wink
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Steven Martin
Twisted Constructions
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Post Mon May 11, 2015 9:08 am 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
Posts: 115
Location: South Australia


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Would like to however I have work commitments. I need to keep them on there good side to use there equipment to built a bot. (Cant be trusted to build a canoe but battle bots no problem).

Post Mon May 11, 2015 11:15 am 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11745
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Say no more Wink Torpedoes are definitely not allowed on sportsman bots!
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Post Mon May 11, 2015 11:42 am 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
Posts: 115
Location: South Australia


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I been skimming of the rules and that. Are we limited to one weapon or one weapon type?

Post Mon May 11, 2015 12:48 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3959
Location: ipswich QLD


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Hey there- yep you can add more than one weapon- but because the weight limit is only 13.6 kg you runout of weight really fast after you add two drive motors, battery and armour - no weight ledt for more than one weapon unfortunatly- usually try and make your robot as small as possibe- great to have new builders onboard Very Happy
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-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Mon May 11, 2015 2:48 pm 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
Posts: 115
Location: South Australia


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The electrical desgin is done Smile. dose anyone know where to get a good screw switch for the main switch. Or any other suggestions. Cheers.

Post Mon May 11, 2015 3:25 pm 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
Posts: 115
Location: South Australia


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Extremely tempted to just grab one of my rc trucks and throwing some armour and a weapon on to it.

Post Mon May 11, 2015 4:12 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11745
Location: Sydney, NSW


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The best commercial switches are made by Whyachi http://www.teamwhyachi.com/MS1.htm however thay are quite expensive! After using those and making my own copies, I have started using a simple & cheap power link. Its made from two 2 pin connectors; one is wired in series with your battery and the other one (the removable link) just has it's pins joined. I use these connectors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32153__Nylon_XT90_Connectors_Male_Female_5_pairs_AUS_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=xt90 as they are cheap, fairly small and very strong. For a sportsman, you could use the smaller XT-60 connectors.
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Post Mon May 11, 2015 4:40 pm 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
Posts: 115
Location: South Australia


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Was thinking of doing that (do it with a few race trucks). just wasn't sure if it was acceptable as an isolation switch.

cheers,

Post Mon May 11, 2015 7:05 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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quote:
Originally posted by James2:
Would like to however I have work commitments. I need to keep them on there good side to use there equipment to built a bot. (Cant be trusted to build a canoe but battle bots no problem).


You should have some access to very nice equipment if you keep them on side. (Not so sure my bosses, bosses, bosses, bosses,.....,bosses, bosses thought much more highly about many others in the sector but his gone now)

Miles has (or had) a 3d printed switch somewhere that you put two bits of copper in and add a screw to close the contacts. Seams to work quite well but as you know, the screw is live so be careful if you decide to make your frame a different potential for some (strange) reason. Could make something similar without a 3d printer.

In a sporstman you may get away with a second weapon if your design is good. in a feather a nice wedge on the rear of your robot can be a good backup if your primary weapon dies and it may cost very little weight.

If you go the removable link, make it clear and easy to get to. None of this "I have a removable link, I just need to remove the lid and dig it out." stuff some of us have been guilty of in the past.
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Post Mon May 11, 2015 9:01 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3959
Location: ipswich QLD


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Yep Steve did the switch design…can give you the files if you have access to a 3d printer? or can print one out if ya need. Pm me if you want them? Very Happy
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www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Mon May 11, 2015 9:08 pm 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
Posts: 115
Location: South Australia


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cheers, Im going to try the plug idea first. with an EC5 plug.
Electrical parts are all ordered now Smile

Post Mon May 11, 2015 9:11 pm 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
Posts: 115
Location: South Australia


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Is there a reason that these very few 4 wheeled bots?

Post Tue May 12, 2015 1:58 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11745
Location: Sydney, NSW


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In featherweight class bots, 2WD is preferred so that you can devote more weight to the weapon or armour. 4WD drive is used on wedges, bricks and some lifters so they have more traction and control. There are no 'rules' about that, its just each builder's design choice.
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Post Tue May 12, 2015 2:11 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9467
Location: Where you least expect


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Hi and welcome Smile

For the switch just go the link. The switches are too pricey.. IIRC the whyachi ones are over $60 AUD now. Do a removable link properly and they can't come out + cost basically $0

Using something like this mounted to the robot and a deans would make a very clean power link. No fishing the thing out of the robot required! There's also an XT60 mount on hobbyking. Not sure about the EC5s though.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40718__Anodised_Alloy_External_Flight_Battery_Arming_Switch_T_Plug_.html

There's a few 4wd robots about. And a handful of 6wd ones too. Most tend to just use 2 wheels to keep the weight down in order to put it into weapons or armour Smile 2wd ones do have Less pushing power and are harder to drive mind you.
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Post Tue May 12, 2015 2:14 pm 
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