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Glen
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Workshop construction

I think i had a thread like this somewhere, but im old and senile now so i can't remember where it was Razz

Time to get my little carport work cube walled in, sick of being outside!

Went out shopping and found this stuff - http://www.wallmark.com.au/products/residential/evowall It's pretty affordable (they quoted $2250 for someone else to come in and wall the place in with it) Its fibre cement walling with styrofoam noise dampening on the inside. up to 28dB apparently

Could be a nice option over just plain jane wood cladding especially for working at night, which is when most stuff gets done these days. Obviously no grinding and such but perhaps it can allow bandsawing, drilling milling and lathing past midnight Smile

Sooo has anyone used this stuff? I'd be worried about welding near it and grinding into it thusly burning the place down. But obviously i can put some appropriate plastic welding/grinding screens up. Those are cheap.

Thoughts?
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Post Mon Feb 17, 2014 8:14 pm 
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miles&Jules
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That stuff looks doable…but Ever thought of a shed? It might work out cheaper thats all(you can get a serious arse shed for $2.5k. You could always sound proof it to.
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Post Mon Feb 17, 2014 8:27 pm 
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Valen
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's a fair point wrt shed, mine was ~$2k delivered.
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Post Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:21 am 
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Nick
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That Evowall stuff looks OK; it has fibre cement cladding on both sides so it will be highly fire resistant unless you take an oxy torch to it. How are you planning to erect the walls? If you are going to use their posts, you just need to hire an auger and a cement mixer from Kennards, its probably just a 1 day job. If you need to cut the panels, I can loan you a special FC cutting circular saw that keeps the waste out of your lungs

I would look at adding a small concrete footing along the edge of the existing slab to keep out water & vermin and then rest the panels on that. The bottom steel channel can be screwed and sealed to the footing for a good waterproof fit.

You should be able to find some steel capping to go over the edge of the roof to make the walls waterproof and I would stuff some closed cell foam between the top of the wall and the roof to make it even more soundproof and keep the weather out.

Post Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:34 am 
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miles&Jules
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Sounds good, but i would be worried about termites, especially if its against the house.
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Post Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:02 am 
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Nick
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Good point! The foam in the panels is treated against termites and the part of the house that this would be attached to is brick. As long as the footing has a termite proof flashing along the top, there won't be any risk.

For more money, you could add a garage beside the car port. It would need council approval (it can be fast-tracked in 10 days) and you could fill in the back of the car port after the council has inspected.

You can sell the idea to your parents as adding value to the house - which it definitely will. I don't know the property market out your way, but its likely to add at least $10K to the property value.

Post Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:15 am 
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Glen
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Okay back on track with this, Have gone through some details and building anything next to the existing car port is out as there is a water easement running along side it that can't be built near. Have to confirm that 100% though.

What i'm thinking now as Nick mentioned, is to pour a concrete footing/raised curb next to the existing slab and erect a stud wall on top of that, attaching it at the top to the existing ceiling.

Can't lay it on the existing slab as it will take up way too much of my room, plus the ceiling has a ledge that drops down just before the slab ends, which will make attaching anything there really tricky.

Building the wall is a piece of cake, but the concrete pouring is something way beyond anything i've done Razz Not sure what the go is when it comes to pouring new concrete next to the old slab, whether it needs a barrier or if it can just be poured straight against it etc. Need to do tons of research, but any pointers would be freakin awesome!
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Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:33 pm 
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Philip
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Could you post a picture?
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Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 7:13 pm 
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marto
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You could probably just pour it straight up against it. How waterproof do you want it?

As in if the concrete cracks how big an issue is the water which will wick its way up through it. Also how big an area is this going to be? And how thick will the concrete be?

Also how are you going to do the boxing? You need to make sure you can get it out once its set.

Another thing to think about is how good is the access to the area? Will you get the truck up in there and will it be able to get it into the areas you need to concrete?

Steve
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Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 8:06 pm 
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Tim



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I have seen a second, third ect. slab laid next to each other separated only by a thick foam material 10-15mm thick not sure what it's brand name is but the slabs mentioned are 20 years old and haven't cracked and they are on black soil.

Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 8:20 pm 
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Glen
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Heres some pics, hard to see everything on account of the tarp city i have going on (trying to keep the wet out!)

The slab ends at the vertical pillars. Putting a wall flush with them will cut back on the internal workshop space way too much, it's already marginal as is. That and the roofline drops down directly over the end of the slab which could make attaching the wall tricky given it isnt flat.




My thoughts were to make a raised curb just on the edge of the slab where the brown vertical beams are, maybe 6 inches high and then stick the stud wall on top of that. That will give me the space needed in the workshop plus allow the stud wall to attach outside of the odd trim around the ceiling.

We haven't had floodwater come above the slab yet, even in the biggest storm seen to date at this place so really needs to just stop rain blowing in.



Perhaps just drilling some rebar into the side of the existing slab then pouring a new bit in with formers will work. It only needs to be ~ 60-100mm wide to accomodate the stud wall. Length is about 6-7 meters from memory.

Unsure if that's a big no-no or if you need to make it a seperate piece for each new pour. Bit of a n00b on that subject haha.

Concrete formwork should be okay i think if it just butts up to the slab.

Cheers for the help fellas as well Very Happy
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Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 9:40 pm 
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Glen
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For a bit more clarity, a highly accurate cad Smile


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Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 9:46 pm 
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marto
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If thats all its doing then I really wouldn't worry too much about it. Just box it up and pour it.


If you want to add rebar into the old slab that would probably help but doubt its really necessary. Maybe a bit of mesh running the length of it if you really want to.

Relative to everything else you do concrete is really pretty simple the only issue is if you do manage to screw it up you better be ready for a work out with the sledge hammer.
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Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:18 pm 
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Nick
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If the concrete footing is only going to support the stud wall and not the end of the house, you don't need to make it particularly strong. For something that shape, Bunnings sells lengths of reinforcing called 'Trench mesh' and they also sell short lengths of rebar to tie new & old slabs together. You need a special glue they have in the fastener isle - can't recall the name but its the only glue near the Ramset bolt section. I have a giant SDS drill that will get the rebar holes done quickly if you need it.

You definitely need to dig a trench for the footing, around 15 to 20 cm should do. You should make the top of the footing at least 15cm higher than the ground even if it never floods that high - you don't want water percolating up into the woodwork. you should also put some white ant capping over the top of the footing; you don't want the house getting eaten out from under you!

Are you just doing the side, or the end as well? Planning for a window anywhere?
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Post Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:49 pm 
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Glen
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Okay, sounds good Smile

What about expansion gaps? the ledge will be nearly 6-7m long, so not sure if thats okay to do in a single piece. Putting an expansion gap there will probably render it not so watertight. Maybe the rebar and the wall being bolted to it will keep it together.. not sure, gotta do some more research on that.

Also what would be the go with doing the formwork for the existing slab side? I'm assuming that the concrete is thick enough not to seep under the wood form and make a mess, haven't worked with the stuff before though. Might need to put some plastic sheet between the slab and form?

This side ledge is all thats needed, there's already a footpath extending out past the end of the carport that i'll put another roller door on to close it up, and yep, a window is probably a good idea Smile

Cheers!
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Post Mon Apr 07, 2014 12:29 am 
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