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Team M3N7@L B0T - QLD
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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Ok so user error has been eliminated in regard to the use of the Turnigy Accucell 6 Charger Balancer http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories.html

After testing both batteries previously mentioned they charged successfully on the same model borrowed charger. Thanks to miles & jules Very Happy

Post Sun Dec 15, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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So was able to get the Orange TX going and drive the bot with it Very Happy albeit in a some what dodgy fashion, learning how to mix is the next trick.

Seems one wheel is getting a little more power than the other not sure why? however driving on lino / hardwood with red wheels doesn't help - drifts around a lot and then some.

Will head to a patch of concrete for driving / mixing purposes with the thought in mind that a surface with better traction quality's will help with mixing if that makes sense.

Post Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:40 am 
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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Location: Sydney


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Redwheels drive great on concrete! But be careful with the colsons, it tends to eat them pretty fast. Smile

The one wheel faster might be one of a few things, could be the motors, or perhaps one of the channels is rate limited (can only reach a certain % ).

EDIT: Weight distro has a huge part to play too, if it's not centred one wheel will get more traction.

Keep tinkering! Best way to learn is to just do. You haven't blown up the escs so you're miles ahead from where most of us first started. Wink
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Post Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:32 am 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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Here's a quick video to show the bot running around absolutely no driving ability Very Happy




....some of the scratching sound is from the cup-head bolts scraping on the ground/concrete very limited ground clearance. still fun though.


quote:
Weight distro has a huge part to play too, if it's not centered one wheel will get more traction.


Yep the motors/wheels are ever so slightly miss aligned and the red bread board I used was warped to start with so that doesn't help....

Last edited by Tim on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:38 am; edited 4 times in total

Post Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:43 pm 
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Jaemus
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It's like driving around near the worlds biggest Mazda 3 or whatever that is Smile
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Post Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:13 pm 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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Hell yeah I just love the footage from the bots perspective I can't drive for sh!t

...but definitely thinking of mounting this crash cam in the bot as a permanent fixture - 9 seconds in sounds like it's on a rev limiter prob just a spinning wheel but love the sound! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Post Tue Dec 17, 2013 6:32 am 
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Valen
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Motor timing will often cause them to go faster "forward" than reverse.
so it'll often turn one way when going forward then the other in reverse.

You can offset this sorta kinda with the mixing.
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Post Tue Dec 17, 2013 9:55 am 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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Ok so there is some issues with the mixing setup I have, hopefully this will shed some light on it.

The OTX I bought was mode 1, I needed a mode 2 so I did the following to the mode 1 I have http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28493__OrangeRx_T_SIX_2_4GHz_DSM2_6CH_Programmable_Transmitter_w_10_Model_Memory_Mode_1_.html I have the self centering stick on the right now, by moving the spring and ratchet to the right stick and the "clamp" from the right to the left side/stick. So its "like" a mode 2 also selected mode 2 in menu, = ELEV --> Vertical plane / AILE --> Horizontal plane.

Below is the feed back response from the bot in relation to stick movement, as you would look straight on at the bot as per previous pictures -

Stick positions -

Top center = Left motor in reverse, right motor nil movement
Top Right = both motors reverse
Right = right motor reverse, left motor nil movement
Bottom right = right motor in reverse, left motor forward
Bottom center = left motor forward, right motor nil movement
Bottom left = both motors forward
Left = right motor forward, left motor nil movement
Top left =left motor reverse, right motor forward

.....as for the mixing "bars" on the LCD screen

Left vertical 1/4 from the bottom
Right vertical 1/4 from the top
bottom left 3/4 from the left ie. ________|___
bottom right 1/4 from the left ie. ___|________

I do hope that makes some sense....

Post Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:15 am 
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Knightrous
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Sorry for the delays - http://robowars.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1955
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Post Thu Dec 19, 2013 8:22 am 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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Thanks Aaron that helped heaps


quote:
Sorry for the delays


No need to be sorry mate absolutely perfect setup, I had my TX set to acro - not heli and had to swap the wires from one tz85a to a motor around.

Now slight wheel misalignment aside runs well, FWD is FWD / RIGHT is RIGHT / REV is REV / LEFT is LEFT

Cheers Man Very Happy

Post Fri Dec 20, 2013 12:54 am 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Got some video of it driving with the new mixing ?
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Post Fri Dec 20, 2013 9:33 am 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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Very Happy .....no not yet only got it sorted 9 hours ago Laughing but yeah it did drive heaps better, will be crash cam footage have to find more concrete with no cars lol...

have given it a few runs diagonal steering / 360 spins @ full tilt eats red wheels Laughing

side note:- alt + 248 = being logged out mid post not a degree symbol?

Very Happy very happy about the new tx/mixing settings Very Happy

Post Fri Dec 20, 2013 10:00 am 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD


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Hey all

Has any one had any experience using battery eliminator circuits? I have done the obvious and searched the forum and wiki pages found nothing, I'm sure there is something in here I just could not find it.

anyhow, jay car sell these http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5523 which seem like a good idea however the amp cut out seems to low for tz85a's & as the fuse in my multi-meter is blown ATM I can't test the run / stall /burst current, as to ascertain if the aforementioned circuit is a viable option.

So far I've killed two 14.8v 2.65mAh nano-tech LiPo's due to misuse 1. arc welded a set of side cutters = just dumb!!! & very tired won't do that again.
2. Drove the bot around on a battery straight out of the box still in storage mode, did not know at the time it needed a charge, was treating it like an SLA won't do that again either.

So in an attempt to stop killing Batteries, 3 schools of thought 1. use a battery eliminator circuit as above or 2. go to a bigger battery ie. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__35486__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_4S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack_AUS_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=4s%205000mah 3. go to A123's however I would like to balance charge and need a suitable charger for the job currenty using a borrowed one of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories.html the one I ordered was D.O.A - new one on the way / can they be hacked for use with A123's and / or what is a good charger for A123s'?

Cheers guys Wink

edit: after curiosity got the better of me I pulled apart the http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31281__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories_EU_warehouse_.html here is a few images of the PCB note mid picture two of the three pads for the legs of one of the two voltage regulators ( It's a guess they are voltage regulators ) are not soldered properly only ever so slightly tagged

mid pic


....and here


....may be lol why I recieved the short ERR on trying to charge the LiPo's

very dodgy......will solder them properly later.........and see what happens the unit just mite work. Smile


Last edited by Tim on Sun Aug 17, 2014 4:30 pm; edited 1 time in total

Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:12 am 
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marto
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
Posts: 5459
Location: Brisbane, QLD


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So they key with lipos is just don't run them flat. And if you do you must charge it straight away.

Some ESCs you can set cut out voltages on. This allows you to protect your batteries without that Jaycar circuit. If you don't have this available you can get beepers which monitor voltage and beep when they get low from hobbyking for like $3. These usually plug into the balance lead while the battery is being used.

When your done using your lipos you should charge them. If you are not going to use them for a while you charge to storage voltage otherwise charge them back up full. If the voltage is too low you have started killing you pack. And chargers won't let you charge this as it thinks your charging the wrong battery.

DANGEROUS.
If this happens what you can do is put your charger into NiCad mode. And charge your battery slowly 0.2A - 0.5A until the voltage comes back up. Do not leave your charge on this mode with a lipo connected. The lipo will catch fire if it gets over charged. You need about 2.8V per cell so when you battery gets up to this voltage you switch back to lipo mode. And finish charging.

This is dangerous and not a good idea. But it will save batteries. If they become puffy or go really out of balance it's very dead. Also I would suggest balancing batteries all the time too. Particularly after full discharge.

Steve
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Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:57 am 
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marto
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Location: Brisbane, QLD


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That could be your problem or they could be soldered on the other side.

Unfortunately with HK stuff DOA sometimes happens. Probably can return it but may be too much effort.

Steve
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Post Sun Dec 22, 2013 8:01 am 
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