Current weight 15.4kg, So in the tradition of the KISS method I've managed to shave 400grams off the bot the top of each tower had 200grams removed, with a potential 1.2 kg to go. However the quoted weight is with all electronics/drives/as it sits in the pics.
note:- cardboard represents where armor will be everything out side of that will be removed (that's where the 1.2kg is) biz armor on the front will stay just replace the cardboard.
To fit it all in I've had to sub the 5S 5ah Nanotech for a 4S 2.65Ah Nanotech I don't really think 4S @ 5Ah is going to be enough as the data logger recorded 12000RPM no load on 5S half throttle with load was 2600RPM with weapon, while a no load spin test on 4S only returned 6000RPM and it seemed from the tests that @ 1/2 throttle on 5S it was just warming up.
I know 4S is safe for 18v 550's drill drives with a support bearing (so will stick to drills) not sure how they would cope with 5S.... however not having data logs re: full throttle weapon test on 4S not to sure that would do the job of efficient KE transfer.
@Valen yep hub is very heavy, 5kg with axle so it needs a diet realistically I only really see 300-500grams max coming off it
still in my hypothetical scenario of 1.2kg frame reduction puts me at 14.2, them maybe down to 13.8 with some magic lathe work on the hub, and I plan to take 250grams out of the base below the blade similar to demon
Ideas, thoughts appreciated.
Cheers Tim
Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:55 am
miles&Jules Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3973
Location: ipswich QLD
rotate the wep motor 180 deg perhaps, it'll let you bring the angled sides in closer, you can then probably pack the electrics up against the front wall of the bot. and shrink it some more. It looks like you can do the same with that battery pack too.
The part of the hub with the belt on it looks to be 2x wider than it needs to be?
Take a look at the hub for demon or decimator for some ideas. _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:41 am
Eventorizon-GB
Joined: 15 Nov 2013
Posts: 111
Location: Ripon, United Kingdom
Damn, you Aussies cut it so close with your spinners, specially your verticals. I would never have my batteries that close to my weapon!
You could try stacking things vertically to get the higher voltage batteries in, like on top of the drive motors and tucking your drive ESC's between the front bulkhead and the motors.
Wed Oct 15, 2014 7:02 pm
Tim
Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD
This is more the image I was trying to convey
@miles nice to know George Carlin is in the house smart ass
@Valen tried rotating the weapon motor & mount it fouls the disc or has to be mounted further back again = more space. In regard to the hub after housing the bearings, bolts and nuts / disc there is only 5mm of alloy under the nut on the right side as you see the pic similar on the other side.
Looking at Demon and Deceminator I get your point, here's the 123D images of the design, the hub does need more work yet, can take material off it but not make it thinner unfortunatly...with out a total redesign.
@Eventorizon-GB the motor mounts are 65mm high and take up alot of space however the support bearing saves drives so it's necessary, I'll be making little padded boxes out of 1mm ally sheet folded and riveted onto the base it worked in mental bot and is really sturdy and light.
Edit:- the front of the bot will end up being 500mm wide as in the pic and 180mm deep with the angled sides
Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:39 am
Tim
Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD
quote:
just make all the armour out of cardboard …it will be so much lighter
......you mean like this.....it's 3 kg Ready for the 2015 Nats
Thu Oct 16, 2014 4:43 am
miles&Jules Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3973
Location: ipswich QLD
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
With that hub, do the bearings fit in the recesses surrounded by the four screws? It seems parts of the hubs could be reduced if that's the case. The other big saving would be to reduce the gap between the wheels and the drills; I don't know how you are doing the hubs but they are taking up a huge amount of space. If you can reduce the gap. the frame could be quite a bit smaller to save weight. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Thu Oct 16, 2014 10:25 pm
Tim
Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD
quote:
With that hub, do the bearings fit in the recesses surrounded by the four screws?
No the bearing sits above the bolt heads hence the size.
As for the wheel mounts they are a prototype hub.
Cheers Nick food for thought anyway
Sat Oct 18, 2014 5:26 am
Tim
Joined: 30 Oct 2013
Posts: 247
Location: QLD
UP mini arrived today here's a test print and a vid of the print
My new toy... and it's mate the rice cooker
Test print - Bearing
Side shot what does it mean when this happens ie. drop on one side bearing works perfectly! at the start of the print the door was closed keen to see it working I opened the door I figure the temp change had an effect but 5 minutes later the raft had lifted at the front thoughts?
Cheers guys sounds like I need to make some adjustments and get a hot air gun as per Angus's MakersMuse vids, is there a decent calibration video/and or instructions out there? (will head over to the UP mini thread) pretty happy with a working bearing for a first print
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