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Reprogramming Brushless ESCs - Complete - No Support Offered
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sleepingAwake



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
Posts: 7
Location: USA


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quote:
Originally posted by Knightrous:
The TZ85A ESC is probably what your looking for then.


Yeah it seemed like the best choice amongst the hacked esc's.
Still I wonder if getting a sabertooth would be better in the long run.

I was trying to go cheap but what I want to do may not be achievable on the cheap.

Post Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:07 pm 
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marto
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Lol. Might be worth mentioning the shitness of the sabertooth 25A is why I developed this in the first place.

If you want something more fancy buy a ragebridge.

Steve
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Post Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:11 pm 
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sleepingAwake



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
Posts: 7
Location: USA


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quote:
Originally posted by marto:
Lol. Might be worth mentioning the shitness of the sabertooth 25A is why I developed this in the first place.

If you want something more fancy buy a ragebridge.

Steve



Reading through all the pages in this thread I saw you had made mention of the sabertooth and your dislike for it.
However you didn't get into detail as too what it's shortcomings were.

What about a cheaper alternative than dual tz85a's?
I need reverse of course and a 25a peak rating.
I'm still not sure if I'll run 24v or somewhere around 12v. Tomorrow I'll have the drivetrain in hand and can test its speed using a 12v source.

Post Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:28 pm 
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marto
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Sabertooth might work @ 12V. But at 24V/6S it will just cut out all the time. I have also had one just disintegrate for no reason and my other one likes to cut out if you ramp the channels too fast even one 12V.

If you want something cheap that works well, has proper control and is reliable then 85As are it. They are already very cheap for their capability and reliability.

As its not combat you MIGHT, I stress the might, get away with this one, http://www.botbitz.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=74. But would strongly recommend stay on ~12V or max of 4S and make sure that your robot will spin the wheels long before it stalls.

Steve
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Post Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:43 pm 
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sleepingAwake



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
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Thank you Steve.

I picked up the wheelchair today and my plan has changed.
The scooter uses an Mk5-spj-80 joystick interface that communicates with the motor control box with a proprietary serial communication called Lonworks.

It looks like 24v will be the best voltage to run it at and the easiest way to interface with it would be to tap into the joystick pinout and feed it a pwm signal and then the Lonworks controller interprets that voltage reading and sends serial commands to the motor controller.

I should be able to hook up an Arduino and rc receiver and with the right code get it to work.

Thanks for the advice so far.
I may change directions and come back this way but I need to dissect the motor controller and see which will be the path of least resistance.

Post Wed Jun 26, 2013 2:22 pm 
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sleepingAwake



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
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Yeah so I'm changing directions.
Best course of action appears to be selling the wheelchair electronics and purchasing some more user friendly and elegant equipment.

Has there been any research into hacking the Turnigy Trackstar 150a?
Apparently its a Castle Creations Mamba clone.
The Mamba has a usb port for programming and can easily be configured for brushed operation through programming.

So I have to wonder if the Turnigy version has the same capabilities?

Post Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:31 am 
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marto
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The 150A controller uses a SiLabs 310 series MCU I currently only have working code for the 330 series.

I have done preliminary work on the Turnigy 200A controller and have it reading in RC pulses.


The manual says the 150A controller is capable of being reprogrammed into brushed mode. However I tried briefly to do this with the radio and wasn't able to get it to work. The programming card may work but another thing you have to be careful with these controllers is that they often have a reverse delay which means there will be some time delay between forward and reverse. Or you must brake. Wait with stick centered then go reverse. The may also limit the reverse speed to 50%.

These are the main reasons that stock RC car controllers are useless for our applications here and why I reprogrammed them.

Steve
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Post Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:49 am 
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sleepingAwake



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
Posts: 7
Location: USA


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quote:
Originally posted by marto:
The 150A controller uses a SiLabs 310 series MCU I currently only have working code for the 330 series.

I have done preliminary work on the Turnigy 200A controller and have it reading in RC pulses.


The manual says the 150A controller is capable of being reprogrammed into brushed mode. However I tried briefly to do this with the radio and wasn't able to get it to work. The programming card may work but another thing you have to be careful with these controllers is that they often have a reverse delay which means there will be some time delay between forward and reverse. Or you must brake. Wait with stick centered then go reverse. The may also limit the reverse speed to 50%.

These are the main reasons that stock RC car controllers are useless for our applications here and why I reprogrammed them.

Steve


Yeah its not gonna work for me.
The reason was right in front of me but you pointed it out.
If I want to use tank type steering waiting for a reverse delay isnt going to work.

Post Fri Jun 28, 2013 2:09 am 
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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quote:
Originally posted by sleepingAwake:

If I want to use tank type steering waiting for a reverse delay isnt going to work.


This is the number 1 reason why brushless motors have taken so long to make their way into combat robot drive trains! I think it's possible now... if you can read through the chingrish to find a controller WITH 0 reverse delay, and non limited reverse. For a reasonable price... Shocked
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Post Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:31 am 
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sleepingAwake



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
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I just order a Robo Claw 2x30A.
I guess I'll find out how good of a controller it is soon enough.

Post Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:40 am 
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8645t



Joined: 21 May 2013
Posts: 9


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help with 0 volts when programing

Hi all I have programed 3 controllers to day 2 off them programed ok but 1 says 0volts or out of range
I have soldered the wires on twice so that's ok
any idears or is it a scrapper ?

thanks in advance

Post Thu Jul 11, 2013 9:33 pm 
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8645t



Joined: 21 May 2013
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marto can I ask do I have to test ie page 46 I think about the regulator would this be the trouble form new ?

cheers
john

Post Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:46 am 
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marto
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Check your solder bridge on the switch.
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Post Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:22 am 
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8645t



Joined: 21 May 2013
Posts: 9


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cheers marto I have resoldered a link but still same error when I try to program
saying read voltage 0.0v is outside selected devices operating range 2.7 to 5.5v
this is in windows 7 Atmel studio 6

any other help thanks

john

Post Fri Jul 19, 2013 6:22 am 
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marto
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Yeh I am not sure. You may have an ESC with a dead BEC. Are you externally powering it? Did you externally power the others?

Steve
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Post Sun Jul 21, 2013 11:12 am 
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