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Glen
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alrighty then. looks like a decent metric version of those is at least $100. more saving to do unless i can settle for the imperial version which is $56 for some reason. i think it should be okay for just indicating?

Post Mon May 25, 2009 5:53 pm 
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Glen
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anyone got any recommendations on what grease to pack the lathe chuck with? i pulled it apart to get all the shavings out and have to redo it Smile

Post Wed May 27, 2009 11:35 pm 
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Nick
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IMHO, you only need the grease for rust protection - use the thickest goop you have so it doesn't spin out at high RPM. a grease that's solid at room temp would be a winner...

Post Wed May 27, 2009 11:51 pm 
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Valen
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our chuck isn't "packed" with anything, a squirt of inox every few months seems to do the job.
Its not like a ball joint in a car or nothin if you pack it in there and spin it, your just going to wind up wearing it ;->
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Post Thu May 28, 2009 11:28 pm 
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Knightrous
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Worth the extra money buying Carbide end mills over HSS? They are about 2-4x the price, and from my experience with cobalt VS hss drill bits, cut harder materials a lot better too. Milling Hardox would make things interesting Razz
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Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:10 am 
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Glen
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quote:
Milling Hardox


cringe

i dont know if you can get carbide end mills smaller then 10mm so the pack of < 10mm HSS end mills would be alright there. > 10mm carbide for sure.

or one of those corn cob style roughing mills. thats my favourite cutter now. it makes it act like a real mill nearly Laughing
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Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 12:02 pm 
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Knightrous
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My 3mm/5mm/10mm HSS endmills arrived from mcjing, so it's a start. Found the chuck for the mill too, so I might even give it a test run this weekend if I can get it into the laundry Smile
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Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:31 pm 
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Nick
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Carbide end mills are available down to very small sizes (under 1mm) if you want them. They are all horribly expensive but necessary for hardened steel like Hardox or Bisalloy. I used a 6 point face cutter on Bis 400 and it went blunt surprisingly fast.

Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:34 pm 
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Knightrous
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It would just be handy to be able to mill a 4 or 5mm wide slot in some hardox for mounting bearing blocks or motors against, allowing some room for adjustment. Will worry about that some other time though Razz
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Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:37 pm 
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Nick
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For a short slot, I'd pre-drill it with a couple of undersized holes, then finish the slot with a cobalt or carbide end mill - you can resharpen the drill many times and it saves wear on the expensive end mill. Also keep in mind that carbide end mills can be rather brittle; run them at higher speed and low feed rate to reduce sideways flexing.

Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:43 pm 
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Valen
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Be wary of cutting near heat cut edges, It goes mega hard there.
bisally people reccomend grinding that off then cutting it, If you can't do that they say to take a BIG (2mm) cut fairly slowly to hack it out of the way rather than trying to cut it down.

They have good info on their website for how to machine it.
Dad did dylons beater ok with some high quality carbides.
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Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:46 pm 
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Nick
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How is Russel? I haven't heard much about his recovery recently.

Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:50 pm 
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Glen
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[quote]It would just be handy to be able to mill a 4 or 5mm wide slot in some hardox for mounting bearing blocks or motors against, allowing some room for adjustment. Will worry about that some other time though [/qoute]

youd be better off just milling the slot into the aluminium bearing block Razz the weapon motor mount on demons done that way. it works much better then i thought it might!

if you want to mill steel youd probably best to get that belt drive conversion kit. the poor plastic gears dont like milling steel too much.

- thinking of buying this as well as a cheap substitute for a face mill.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-76MM-MILLING-FACE-CUTTER-WITH-MT3-ARBOR-NEW_W0QQitemZ260426942369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_BnI_Woodworking_Metalworking?hash=item3ca2a7c7a1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1|66%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

looks like an non indexible face mill but at least you can remove the carbides to regrind them. definitely solid Very Happy

worth it?
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Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:15 pm 
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Knightrous
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Regrinding them is gonna be hard as you will need to make sure all the cutting points at the same height and angle after the grind (better chance pigs will fly, lol, swineflu). Indexable at least when you change the tips they all stay at the same height.
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Post Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:21 pm 
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Valen
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Russell is doing physio every day now, He has an epic commute to get there though.
All the way down the path, past the shed, out the back gate, up the lane past 2 whole other houses, and into the back gate of the physio's place.

He is allowed to take his arm out of the sling now when he is at home, The doctor said everything was going really well and predicted in a year he should be about back to normal. For the next 2 months though he's not allowed to lift anything heavier than a wallet with his arm. When he gains that much range of motion again I'm sure that limit will piss him off lol.

Hasn't slowed the CnC conversion on the mill too much though, The electronics box is pretty much done (all on the mill), I'll show Russell how to post photos tomorrow hopefully so you can see all the pretty.

Heh I also found a use for my old desktop, a Dual Xeon 3.06Ghz (P4 style Xeon), running EMC2. Maximum latency is 3usec, now I just have to see if i can get the nvidia driver working to see if i can have full openGL support with the realtime kernel. On single CPU machines the NVIDIA driver causes big problems, but this has one CPU isolated from the schedualer and totally devoted to the realtime stuff.
It must be the most computationally overpowered mill in the world I reckon, I'll have to get it crunching folding at home or something in its off times. HAH maybe turn it into the webserver or TV computer backend.
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Post Fri Jun 26, 2009 2:56 am 
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