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Sabertooth 2X25
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timmeh
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Joined: 20 Jul 2004
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what about 5 cells?
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Post Mon Dec 15, 2008 10:09 pm 
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Glen
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yeah i reckon 5 cells would be pretty bulletproof Smile still interesting to see what has killed jakes anyway. i know plenty have used them with scooter motors which are 24v and seem to have no problem.
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Post Mon Dec 15, 2008 10:11 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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for anyone who wants to know what a sabertooth 2x25 looks under the heat sink
http://web.aanet.com.au/drapc/IMG_0090.jpg
http://web.aanet.com.au/drapc/IMG_0091.jpg
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Post Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:11 pm 
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Valen
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what are the part numbers on the fets?
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Post Wed Jan 14, 2009 5:24 pm 
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seanet1310



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the 8 chips with thermal paste (im assuming they are the fets) say
4833n
R744
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Post Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:08 pm 
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dyrodium
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That looks very low power... Confused
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Post Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:03 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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yea it does a bit.
Time will tell after robowars hopefuly. a drill powered thwatbot should push it.
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Post Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:37 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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i know necrophilia but re googled the part number of the sabertooth 2x25 fets and found it.
http://www.datasheetpro.com/1011163_download_4833N_datasheet.html
for anyone interested.

30 V, 191 A, Single N-Channel, SO-8 FL
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Post Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:26 pm 
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shreddy



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hey, its a coincidence this thread popped back up as i have a question Razz
my first test ran extremely well with none of this full throttle=cuts out business but i had to constantly adjust the trim which i wasnt too happy about. also it says it counts the number of lipo cells and shows it with the number of flashes, im running a 6s a123 pack but it is registering as 5 Confused
on my second test it just randomly died after 30 seconds as i discovered that one of the two red reciever wires had popped out. anyways i got them back in and secured all the other ones in properly but now i have another problem.
it wont turn to the left and every two seconds it will twitch a bit to the right. i am running the reciever with a reciever batt pack for now and i was wondering how im supposed to disable the onboard bec on the sabretooth as the instructions make no sense. also would the twitching be corresponding to the fact that its not completely isolated to the metal base?
any help would be much appreciated
thanks

EDIT:
after some advice i removed the rx batt and everything was back to normal, do i just need to remove the red rx wires to disable the bec? i plan to use an eBec instead for reliability.
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Post Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:12 am 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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Location: Adelaide


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the lipol issue would be becasue it is trying to predict the number of standard lithium polymer batterys and a nominal voltage of 3.7v (A123's are 3.3v) the difference is enough for it to detect one less cell. A123's from memory are classified as Lithium-Ion anyway.

Yes all u have to do is remove the red rx wire from teh sabertooth to disable the bec leave the black wire (may be brown) in as a voltage reference.
sounds like u are having the problem i had. An external bec fixed my issue. hope it does yours.

edit: i did not do much testing but i think the hobby king reciver uses less power then the br6000 but still would use far greater then 10ma so some form of bec will be needeed (with the red wire removed from the sabertooth)


On a side note the 2x50 sabertooth apears to have a very decent switching bec so they must have listened to complaints.
Has anyone seen the 2x50 without its massive heatsink?
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Post Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:23 am 
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marto
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Interesting.

Had forgotten about this thread. Few things which I find interesting is that they use 1x4833N per channel. The Tz85as use 3 I think.

Also I have a tz85a I killed the 5V switch mode on with these lying around so I might be able to revive my sabertooth with it. It raises the question how they do the current measuring. Might look into it, now that I have a 50% dead one lying around.

*Oh can definitely confirm that sabertooth is no good for drills above 4S or 14V.

Steve
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Post Tue May 24, 2011 4:11 pm 
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