Someone on this thread has had a good experience with them. http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/discus/messages/13/13770.html?1220295039 and http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/discus/messages/13/12108.html?1212512140

Good luck.
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

hmm if Leos reading this what is the mod you do to the XXL? i dont like the way the Fet chips mount on the back either. i was thinking you could drill a hole through the pcb and bolt the fets down but im not sure if theres any internal tracks or anything on the other side of the board (havent got one here atm).

but collo, IFI is a very high powered but basic speed controller.

IBC is also pretty good, mines been very reliable, but its pretty big compared to the newer breed. not sure if they are made anymore?
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Just a thaught with the failsafe position setting thing.
Is there anything paticular about the stick position when the power is applied to the bot or anything like that?
I'm just thinking voltage drops during the fight could be causing the controller to reset.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Have you used the Sabertooth DIP switch wizard? http://dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/Sabertoothdipwizard/start.htm

Edit cut and paste from Leo
http://members.home.nl/pjmmaas/speedo/speedo1.JPG
http://members.home.nl/pjmmaas/speedo/speedo2.JPG
http://members.home.nl/pjmmaas/speedo/speedo3.JPG
Cut and paste from Mario
That's the PCB carrying the second tier of mosfets, that makes a Scorpion XL into an XXL. This is a homegrown version of the XXL, and is as you can see, squeezed in a box with a pull/push microfan combo.
Original thread http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/discus/messages/13/9882.html
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

ifi is more commonly known as victors.
Noted for high current handling, poor physical strength (fets get ripped off) and poor control at low speeds. As glen said though, in the feathers i don't know of anybody killing one "electrically". They are also moderately expensive.

The scorpions seem like a nice drive, we blew a fet on one but it was fairly self contained, replaced the fet and all was well.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

quote:

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Originally posted by Valen:
The scorpions seem like a nice drive, we blew a fet on one but it was fairly self contained, replaced the fet and all was well.

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OMG! Philip that DIP Switch wizard helped me so much. I ahd up the wrong way, trying to decipher what the manual showed and yeah, got that all good again.

Turned everything on, and one motor spun, the other was smoking soo my lil bro is buying the next (5th) drill and after that we should have a working...wooden....robot.

BTW, we currently have 2 motors at home, Bunnings recieved 3 'faulty' drills to return love that sceme.

Thanks for all teh help guys, ill try to post some pics of the bot soon.

I always like the Bunnings sales people reminding us to keep the receipts in case we need to return the drills.

Daniels Sabertooth went well today during testing. The fault was found to be a fractured solder joint on the terminal. This intermittently cut power to the controller causing it to restart. If this happened while the sticks on the radio where forward then the Sabertooth would re center around this position causing the driving issues in the first two fights at Battleshed. A bit more tugging on wires in the pits caused the joint to fail completely.
The problem was easy to see when the controller was out of the robot as the terminal was bent. A quick reflow of the solder joint and it goes like new.
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Get Some!!!

Secretary of the Queensland Robotics Sports Club inc.

19.2v drill at 18v
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Umm, realised why the other drill was smoking... as our frame is made out of wood, there were many nails and screws inserted into the wood. Upon trying to remove the burnt motor we realised that one of the nails was hammered INTO the armature. Soo we had to rip all the wood to remove the motor which means we are now going to rebuild everyhting but with metal this time.
This means either pop-rivetting everything (which mum thinks will work) or buying a welder and learning how to weld. But thats probably a new thread.

Thanks for all the help but now we just ahve to spend some MORE moeny...

Collo

i don't know if pot-rivers would survive combat they might go well against non high KE spinners but someone who builds in metal may be able to advice you more. Welding may be a worthwhile investment proving useful in other endeavours later on
I only have experience with plastic chopping board and screws so i cant be much help.

Its good to hear the sabertooth didn't blow up at least at battleshed. with the terminal fixed and not mixing in both the radio and controller i wonder how it would have gone

I keep tell my brother that I turned the on board mixing in the controler off because the mixing settings in my radio are 10 times better. It just doesn't seem to sink in.

A welder is a tool, your going to keep using it for stuff other than just robots. You will be surprised how handy it is to glue metal to other bits of metal ;->

I think courtney built flexo with a $100 bunnings stick.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

lol hmm bunnings gmc welder lol weld for 2 mins cool down for 30

Im wondering if 18v drills at 25v would be ok for a scorpion?
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Tim Team Reaper.

Last edited by timmeh on Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:56 am; edited 1 time in total

id say so. im a bit worried running my 18volters on 6 a123s. fingers crossed!

they have a 28v total voltage limit and the 7 cell a123s will get right up past that at a full charge. so i reckon it might blow it.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz