|
|
3Faze
Joined: 26 Jun 2004
Posts: 99
Location: Lincolnshire, UK
|
Sounds obvious to say it, but some form of insulation between the cells is needed, and it needs to be able to withstand heat. Insulation tape isn't ideal, cardboard/plastic tubes are good, something I'm working on is a drilled, low density plastic block, possibly with intercooling.
What you need to be doing for soldering is making the joint thick and fast, then sinking the heat away. Silver solder's great, but it's a bugger to use. 100W is about fair, assuming it's a good brand iron. If it were me, I'd use my gascat iron on full (think about 150W-200W equivalent in an electric iron), then sink the heat away with a lump of ali.
|
Sun Sep 12, 2004 5:35 am |
|
|
|
|
Nick
Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
|
Outside of cells with cardboard casing, water should do absolutely nothing to a nicad unless it somehow got past the seals - if that happened, its probably had melted a seal and is ruined anyway.
Water is minimally conductive unless it has additives, so using distilled or at least clean water will stop and electrical discharges. Drying the cells afterwards is an obvious step before heatshrinking or taping.
I was thinking of using a large waterbath, something like a glass baking dish. The thermal mass is large and if it became warm, it can be refilled.
Tilting the dish so the shallow end comes close to the top of the cells allows them to be soldered, then slide the cells to the deep end for cooling.
I would be pre-tinning all the cell tops and bars too - that way you can be sure each surface is properly covered before joining them.
Why do I think this will work? In a previous electronics job, we had a wave soldering assembly line. after seeing what the components went thru in the cleaning stage, I can't see how cold water could possibly cause a problem _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
|
Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:17 pm |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|