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Miles & Jules Robots QLD
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Yeah good thinking guys - after we finish out kitchen i might drag all the crap out of the shed a see how it fits and goes up high - though need to hire a crane to get it onto its base first- so damn heavy😱
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

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Post Mon Dec 07, 2015 8:08 pm 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 785
Location: Belgium


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Wanna trade? I have a welding table to turn over....

Post Mon Dec 07, 2015 8:28 pm 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Location: NSW


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Engine cranes work a treat for this kind of thing and are cheap.
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Post Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:57 am 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Yep thats what the guy had to lower it off his trailer- can rent for $50 i see😄 or buy for $300?😄
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Tue Dec 08, 2015 7:58 am 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Mill Action....finally got it going.

We hired an engine crane that did the heavy lifting.





Well we ended up putting the mill under our gumtree carport because of roof height..it was not going to fit in our little shed.

But because it would get rained on there we decided to enclose it with some white corrugated polycarb..that way it gets light in there but is still weatherproof. it actually gives us more space cause we can put stuff right up against the wall now.



Here is our epic new years eve dinner. Jules that was Delicious.



First cuts with the mill...omg it goes through ali like butter. ...cant wait to build some shit this this



here is the previous owners makeshift power feed..it actually works genius its got a huge gearbox to drive it...its got a bolt that the whole motor pivots onto the gear that turns the x axis....or you can spin it upwards to disengage the gears if you want to do it manually.



here are the two industrial limit switches to cut power to the power feed. I guess these get put somewhere to stop the powered from jamming against itself.


here you can see the dro.... if only it worked Sad it powers up, but thats it...i looked inside and can see corrosion on the board so don't know how to fix that...we might just have to leave it there and pretend it works.



seeing em side by side the mill makes the drill press look so cute and little.


looks like the y axis screw cover has perished away from abuse...i guess this should be replaced?



I haven't tested the previous owners makeshift coolant pump while cutting yet...but it does squirt water a while after you turn it on.

So how long can you leave water based coolant on the mill before it starts rusting? its the 20:1 mix that hare and forbes sell.
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Sat Jan 02, 2016 2:30 am 
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Nick
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Welcome to the milling club - I am sure you will make some epic stuff with it! The DRO might be OK; I have the same brand and if goes thru its self-test and the displays both finish up with all zeros, its at least partly working. I don't see any readers plugged into it - there should be two metal armoured cables going to a scale on each axis of the table and they seem to be missing in the photos.



You can buy new scales from Hare & Forbes if you want to get the DRO working again - they are a huge benefit to accuracy and I use mine every day. Perhaps you can take the DRO to H&F and test it before buying replacement scales.

The coolant is OK to leave on the mill until it evaporates; the soluble oil prevents rust as long as you mix it right.

The worn out screw cover should definitely be replaced. The original stuff is plasticised cloth but heavy canvas will probably last a fair while,
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Post Sat Jan 02, 2016 7:55 am 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Hi Nick
Thats good to hear about the coolant. Now we can test that without rust worries. The Dro doesn't do the self check..i watched a you tube vid ...to show what its supposed to do.....yep i took the scales off once i realised it was shagged....so will see if h&f know how to fix...or will get one down the track. will get that screw cover covered today. Very Happy
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Sat Jan 02, 2016 10:11 am 
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Nick
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The scales are the expensive part and their output is standardised, so you can use another brand of display. If you get it replaced, I would get a three channel display and an extra Z axis scale.
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Post Sat Jan 02, 2016 10:57 am 
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Tim



Joined: 30 Oct 2013
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Location: QLD


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@miles nice work there man Cool way to get the light in there...told ya you could borrow my crane it does a 1000kg ~ either way looks great!
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Post Tue Jan 19, 2016 3:22 am 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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I Gang- how to fix mill leakage- its pissing out from these bolts that hold it to the table- because the underside has all bits of metal for strengthening - i thing our only option is to silicone around the base? What do people do?
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:30 pm 
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Nick
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I used silicone and had no problems. You will need to get everything dry and clean off the oil with a solvent before using any silicone. If you are waterproofing around the edges, buy some plastic L angle from Bunnings - its sometimes in the plumbing section. Likewise cut some plastic patches for flat areas to cover the silicone on the inside of the tray. I found that exposed silicone was worn down and pulled off after cleaning out the swarf a few times.
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Post Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:43 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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AH epic thanks dude.
I will have to get a pic, but the pump works really well...it takes a minute or so to prime but then it squirts out pretty powerfully...couldn't do any cutting cause of all the coolant leaks but should be good once its waterproofed. Very Happy
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:50 pm 
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Valen
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Perhaps go a urethane sealant, might stick better than silicone
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Post Mon Jan 25, 2016 6:16 am 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3973
Location: ipswich QLD


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Ok cool-i was reading that sikafkex is good?- i suppose going around the base of the mill might not look as pretty, but would mean less rust than if ya just did the bolt holes underneath with the mill sitting in coolant for ages - will grab some from bunnings today😄
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Mon Jan 25, 2016 10:34 am 
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Nick
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I can see a problem with sealing around the base where it rests on the tray: coolant can run inside the base from the mill table and there isn't much you can do about it. That will still allow leaks from the bolt holes and the coolant inside the base needs somewhere to drain or the oil will go manky. I would loosen the bolts, add a wide washer if there isn't already one there, seal under the washers, tighten the bolts until the sealant squeezes out and then seal around the head of the bolt.

If you think its just the bolt holes leaking, you could maybe make or buy some rubber sealing washers - Bunnings often has handy stuff in the plumbing section meant for repairs on taps & toilets.
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Post Mon Jan 25, 2016 11:26 am 
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