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Jolt & friends - Team Overkill - NSW
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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Shiny 1.1

I just finished the first bearing mount, so here it is holding the new layered front of the bot together:



I'm hoping that when the layers are welded around their edges, they will be almost as strong as a single piece of Ti.

The new VFD motor on the mill had an unexpected pay-off; the boring head left a much MUCH smoother finish on the bearing pocket than ever before. Given that everything else stayed the same, the quiet-running motor must not be causing vibration in the boring bar or something.
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:10 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Looks genius

….don't know of you have this problem…. but do you wish the stage on your bench drill didn't rotate up and down….such an annoying thing to find the damn thing isn't straight after drilling several holes.
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:21 pm 
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Nick
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Do you it tilts so the table is not 90 Deg. to the drill bit, or it swings around the column? Before all the upgrades to my drill press, the locking knob at the back of the table never closed properly and the table would always swing sideways in between lining up the part and turning the drill on Mad.

I used the angle grinder with a cut-off disk to open up the slot behind the table and replaced the pissy little locking knob with a larger lever. Now the table stays exactly where I want it!
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:36 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Thats good…..that lock on mine is ok …but the yeah the not 90 degrees issue is dodgy on mine….and i have never had to drill a hole that wasn't 90 degrees using it….i just wish it was solid.
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:52 pm 
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Nick
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On most drills there is a huge locking screw under the table. On qood quality ones, there is a a locking pin that indexes the table to several standard angles. If you get the table aligned accurately, you could drill a hole and insert a pin to keep the table where you want it. For a less permanent option, you might try filling the join between the table and the column with Loctite 638 retaining compound.
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 9:08 pm 
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miles&Jules
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good idea... Very Happy
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 9:10 pm 
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Ellis



Joined: 21 Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Location: Shopshire, England


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A very rudimentary and measuring tool-less method I have used to get a drillpress square is: find a soft piece of flat material with a coating on it (I have used old bits of furniture wood, checking it's flat first and the finish is smooth) and put it on the table. Then get a spade bit for cutting wood, larger is better, chuck it up and spin it. Slowly bring it down into the material. If the whole setup is flat to the spindle you will see an equally deep circle begin to scratch into the finish (you need the finish so when it cuts past it it contrasts with the untreated material beneath, making the scraped circle visible).

If anything isn't square, one side of the circle will start to scratch in before or more than the other. You can tap about the table until each time you do the test the circle i scratched into the finish is a consistent shape and depth.

If using wood I'd suggest rotating it a few times and testing slightly along to make sure your inconsistency isn't in the test piece.

With this ghetto method I've been able to get holes pretty damn straight on pretty damn terrible drills.
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2015 11:15 pm 
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Nick
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Two improvements to that:

Coat the surface with a felt tip marker so you can see where the drill cuts more clearly.

Use an adjustable hole cutter; the further the arm is extended, the more accurate it is.


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Post Thu Sep 10, 2015 8:41 am 
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miles&Jules
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yep i do a similar one nick ...using a zigzag piece of 1/4' brass with a fine point on the end….then just spin it around and lower the chuck till it touches …then spin if it touches one side earlier then its to high and give it a tap…..this works…i just nned to make t hold in that position.
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Post Thu Sep 10, 2015 8:41 pm 
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Nick
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Progress:

Shiny is all finished and weighs in juuuust under the limit:



That is including the LEDs I added for the Vivid event, so Shiny can easily drop 50 grams if needed. Mr Mangle still needs a shorter belt on the weapon motor and heaps of Loctite but that's all that's left to do Smile.
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Post Sat Sep 12, 2015 2:26 pm 
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Nick
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Too much progress Smile

I got Scissorhands on the bench to see what it needs to get running - not much, just a new gearmotor and lots of cleaning up. One thing is obvious though; I really need a longer work bench!



I really must get back to the new version of Scissorhands soon; here is a preview of what the new weapon bar might look like:




Mwahahah!
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Post Sat Sep 12, 2015 4:16 pm 
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miles&Jules
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...and you thought the last Scissor Hands was hard to drive ha ha…cant wait to see that hit someone else's robot though. Cool
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www.wombokforest.com.au

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Post Sat Sep 12, 2015 5:11 pm 
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Nick
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More mouths to feed:

Its barely spring and there is already a new possum demanding bananas:



Still a bit shy though.
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Post Sat Sep 12, 2015 11:20 pm 
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Mouldy



Joined: 10 Aug 2011
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you sticking with a beater in the new shiny nick? Or you still considering going to a drum?

Post Mon Sep 14, 2015 1:39 am 
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Nick
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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It wouldn't be that hard to mount a drum in place of the beater in any of my vertical spinners. The real problem is making a drum that is as bulletproof and effective as the latest crop of beaters has been. Your titanium drum with steel inserts works brilliantly but I don't have a lathe to handle the job and paying a commercial shop for that much machining would be painful.

My new workshop is inching towards construction and one of the first things to do after moving in is to get an upgrade to my toy-sized lathe. Maybe when that happens I will start planning the drum conversion. BTW: how much does 722's drum weigh?
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Post Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:58 pm 
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