I think thats probably more a price thing as the odds of it coming out in one piece are pretty slim.

Steve
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Steven Martin
Twisted Constructions
http://www.botbitz.com

That's probably due to one particular number; the huge $$$ . Numbers and theory are everything - if other builders don't follow the best design principles, the better for Jolt! On the other hand, if I can't get the right thickness titanium in the next 3 to 4 weeks, Bisalloy is the only option. I wonder if the HHA grade is available anywhere?
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Perhaps look at the numbers for Al?
if you can get a decent grade of it at least...
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Aluminium can be good armour and quite a few lightweights (K2, Touro Light, RIP) but its just too bulky for this design. I would have to replace parts already made and completely redo the CAD - Its got to be steel or Ti at this stage.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

What size is it? I might have something that exceeds HHA in 5mm thickness. Maybe you could layer it.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

The sides are 502 by 117mm, the back is 324 by 132mm. I don't know how layering would go, but using something extra hard for the rear wedge would be a real bonus, thanks!
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Progress:

The weapon bearing blocks are all finished; they are absolutely massive and weight almost 800 grams without the bearings:



The next parts to be machined are the pulleys and then its just wiring and electronics.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

That is some good tramming on that mill you have going there.
Shiny.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

quote:

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Originally posted by Nick:
, the back is 324 by 132mm. I don't know how layering would go, but using something extra hard for the rear wedge would be a real bonus, thanks!

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@ Mario: that could be interesting - I will see what is around locally to save time and postage first. One problem is that there are six M14 tapped holes to attach the removable front forks. Titanium is hard enough to tap, so what are my chances of tapping Hardox or Bisalloy? There isn't really any room for a nut, the weapon bearing blocks are in the way.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Lovely chunky bearing blocks Nick, fantastic. What size bearings are those? Nice finish on the bore too, are you using a replaceable carbide insert? I'm still using brazed carbide which doesn't seem to be as pretty and I'm considering upgrading.
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For my stuff
http://bodgeitandhope.blogspot.co.uk/

Wait Mario, you have Armox? I thought that was unavailable to the public?

Jarvis - doubt it. I haven't read anything stating it can't be sold to the public. you would just need to buy it from SSAB as a whole sheet. Apparently there is a shortage of it world wide as ssab aren't due to start producing more for another few months. Plus it is a really tricky material to do anything with due to its massive hardness. Welding it is also very tricky. Much more so than any of the wearplate steels. Pre heat post heat, obscure fillers are all necessary. etc etc.

IMHO just sticking with the 400-500 grade wear plates is better unless you are seriously kitted up to work with the stuff (carbide tools and tig welders, so on)

Nice work on them mounts. Are the bearings the same size as the feather?
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Jolt laughs at puny featherweight bearings!

Here are the bearing blocks from Jolt and Mr Mangle:



At first glance, they don't look too much different. The bearing ID increases from 20 to 25mm, The block is 3mm thicker, the mounting screws increase from M8 to M10. The secret sauce is in the bearing construction; Jolt has spherical roller bearings that can take 2.95 more dynamic load (3,820 Kg each) than Mr Mangle's ball bearings. I could be completely wrong on the maths, but that should mean that the bearings are good to accelerate a 27.2 Kg bot at around 282g before they break

Haz: I am using a carbide insert boring bar but I am not so pleased with the results. The insert lasts for ages in soft material but the small 1/32" radius (the largest available) on the tips leaves a rough finish unless the feed rate is very low. I have some cheapo brazed carbide boring bars that give much smoother cuts but they go blunt quite quickly. They originally gave completely crap results until I reground them. If you have a steady hand and a bench grinder, I can PM some photos of how I improved them.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

If you are feeling experimental you can mill threads on the CnC, if you can get a carbide thread milling tool small enough it should work.... ;->

*edit M14 should be easy enough to find a tool for,
a "single point" tool will probably be cheaper and more versatile, I'll have a look
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets