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Micro Magnum, Team Magnum, NSW
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marto
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
Posts: 5459
Location: Brisbane, QLD


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I have some 1:4 pinions on botbitz back in stock.

But can't ship till 3rd.

Steve
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Twisted Constructions
http://www.botbitz.com

Post Sat Dec 23, 2017 10:33 am 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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Thanks Steve you made me realize that I bought two of those from you just before I left for China (I was assuming that the 1:13s use the same pinions, which turned out to be right).

Those and the two pinions from the previous 775 motors are just enough for all four of my brushless drive motors.

Post Sat Dec 23, 2017 2:04 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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Update:
Now all of my drive motors have pinions installed on them. Just did a test run and it seems working.

https://youtu.be/tBYtAOux1EQ

Btw what braking settings do you guys usually use for SimonK?

Post Sat Dec 23, 2017 3:39 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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Update:
So just now the machinist sent me a message saying that they still somehow managed to screw something up: this time some pocketing was done on the other side of the panel!

I announce that Contraption is officially a cursed machine right now.

Post Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:28 pm 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 8492
Location: NSW


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quote:
Originally posted by MoonSet416:
Update:
So just now the machinist sent me a message saying that they still somehow managed to screw something up: this time some pocketing was done on the other side of the panel!

I announce that Contraption is officially a cursed machine right now.

Sounds more like you are dealing with an incompetent company and machinist.
Once you find a good company, things will go smoothly.
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Post Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:16 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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Yeah the machinist that's actually doing the job probably did pay much attention to the job. I may be able to start doing my next bot (or an upgrade to Contraption) after the upcoming FMB event and I will try a new machinist, will report back.

Post Tue Jan 09, 2018 3:26 pm 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 779
Location: Belgium


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Even if the work is done for free and the material not payed for, it's expensive in time, that kind of shenanigans.

Search a better machine shop... Or create your own. (I'm doing that for the last 15 years now)

Post Tue Jan 09, 2018 3:30 pm 
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Eidg



Joined: 27 Nov 2015
Posts: 10
Location: Switzerland


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Thats the reason why i made most of the parts by miself. Even if you pay a little fotune you have to check all the parts for failures.
I have been working for years with different tooling machines, and also controlling parts from suppliers and never seen such a mess as your parts are lookig.

How mwde this parts a blind an drunken sailor in a storm? Shocked

Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 6:40 am 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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In the future I will def try doing some parts by myself... Or at least watch my parts getting machined at a local machine shop I recently found.

To be honest I'm shocked by my recent encounters, especially given who's doing the job. Initially I contacted the team behind Scrap Metal, who outsourced to some random machine shop in their local area and screwed up. This time the parts were actually made my the Salted fish guys and they still managed to do the pocketing on the wrong side.

According to the Slated Fish guys, the new chassis should be done soon and hopefully I can still compete in the upcoming FMB event.

Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 3:02 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11799
Location: Sydney, NSW


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I bet those guys don't mention how many stuff-ups they have with their own parts. Its easy to make a good looking part on your 10th try Wink
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Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 4:34 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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Lol they won't.

That makes me wonder: what can reduce the chance of having a bad part? Like, should I tell the machinist to do as many operations on a CNC as possible?

Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:08 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11799
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Really clear drawings definitely help. Apart from a 2D dimensioned drawing, a small 3D render of the part is customary. Add short call-out notes for more complicated features and never assume the machinist can read your mind!

Since the machinists you were working with are probably self-taught and don't know everything they should, I would specify the drill size for tapped holes as well as the depth you want them threaded to.

If possible, show hidden lines as dashes and make the outline of a part thicker for clarity.

For parts that have precise tolerances (like a shaft fitting into a bearing, specify a tolerance range like +0mm to -0.05mm) so that if they are outside that, you can call them out on it.

Machinists should look at the number of decimal points in dimensions to get a sense of the tolerances you expect. Showing a dimension as 100 mm indicates a low precision part while showing the same dimension as 100.000mm means the dimension is high precision (for a bot Smile ). You might note on the drawing that more decimal points means more precision required.

Don't go overboard specifying 3 places of precision where it's not needed - it will piss off the machinist and likely cost you more. For CNC parts, the precision should be there anyway (assuming their mill is any good) I'd ask what tolerance they can hold on the mill and put that in the drawing as a note.
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Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 6:38 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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Thanks, Nick.

Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:43 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11799
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Something else I like to do is show imperial measurements in red. With a page full of metric measurements its easy to forget that 1 or 2 might be in inches (IE for 1/2" shafts on gearboxes). That isn't a drafting standard but its helped me in the past.
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Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 8:55 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 431
Location: Sydney


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Yeah that will be helpful in the case of P60s.

What I usually do is converting to metric and leave a bit of extra room so that I can have some cushioning between the chassis and the P60s.

EDIT: Not sure how well that cushioning works though, as the gearbox will still be fixed onto the chassis by screws. Had a 775 motor shattered during the Robowars Australia event but that could be me forgetting to put padding on the motor side.

Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:05 pm 
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